Buick Park Avenue front end and steering problems - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 08-16-2014, 07:06 PM   #1
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Default Buick Park Avenue front end and steering problems

i have a 2000 buick park avenue, cant figure out what is causing this list of problems:

1. service stability system light comes on and stays on while driving.

2.steering wheel is a little loose, also vibrates at 65+ mph only,

3. along with the steering wheel, front end shakes (feel it in the pedals, steering wheel, seats, etc..., only shakes when going highway speeds 65+ mph.

4. steering wheel can be hard to turn at times when stopped, example: pull into a driveway put it in reverse and turn the wheel to back up and acts like i have no power steering. (fluid is full and no leaks)

5. sometimes when i make a hard right turn will hear a noise sounds like the rack and pinion or somthing in that area

6. bad shutter in front when braking, acting like rotors are warpped but put brand new pads and rotors on and the new ones immediatly act like they are warpped.

7. when hitting a bump on the highway going around 60 to 70 mph the front of the car shoots to the right as if someone just pushed the front of my car that way from the driver side.

i have replaced the following parts all brand new:
pads, rotors, inner and outer tie rods on both side, new cv axel on driver side, new trans mount in front of engine (old one was broken), brand new tires, wheels balanced and also an alignment, immediatly after the alignment the car still pulled to the right when i let go of steering wheel, i checked to see if wheel bearings where bad by trying to move wheel up and down and side to side has slight movment but not much, driver side does make a noise when i wiggle the tire, i have all of these problems at once and i am just frustrated with this car and need to find the cause and fix the problems, i have taken the car several times to big 0 tires and they keep telling me nothing is wrong with the car everything looks fine, they test drove it only around town wont go on highway but they say "oh its just the way the highway is, your car is fine", i have taken it to another shop and they tell me the same thing everything looks fine, obviously not fine when all of this is occuring lol if anyone can help thank you so much!

Last edited by Low_; 08-16-2014 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:01 PM   #2
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Have the front control arm bushings and ball joints been replaced? As far as the light you should take it to someone who can read chassis codes on your car. Don't take it to people who say it'* how the car is, that just means they have no clue
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:09 PM   #3
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Those have not been replaced, they do look to be in good condition, as far as the light i dont know where to go and get that scanned besides a dealer who will charge an arm and a leg i do it
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:20 AM   #4
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call different independent shops and ask. the bushings are what it sounds like to me, have someone drive it back and forth and watch the wheel in the arch if it moves in relation to the wheel arch at all even a little thats not good
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:59 AM   #5
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Gee, I hope I can continue to post with all my infraction points adding up....

Stability light usually comes on because of the steering wheel sensor at the base of the column.....a code will be set....it will be a "C" code, so you need a scanner that can read ABS codes....

Steering wheel loose? Then the front end should be checked....also alignment checked...since you had one done, and it pulled immediately, I would have brought it right back....you won't be the first one to get a bad alignment...and they should have checked EVERYTHING in the front end, BEFORE doing the alignment...

But a vibration that happens at around 65 mph, is most likely a tire imbalance....throw a weight? Same people do the tires that did the alignment?

Do you have MSVA steering?

Definitely looks like you have a pulsation....did you or garage do the brake job?....was the pulsation right after the brake job, or did it take a few weeks/months after the job before the pulsation started? If it took awhile, either poor installation technique or Chinese rotors...

Our shop stressed no comebacks.....you get an alignment, and it immediately pulls....that tells me the shop did not do a road test to check their work......because of a heavy work load, we had to send one of our customer'* cars out for an alignment....they drove it back to us....customer gets the car says it is pulling....I road test it...it wasn't pulling...it tracked straight...only problem was, the steering wheel was off about 25 degrees, so when he had the steering wheel straight it looked like a pull...last time we used those guys....
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Old 08-19-2014, 02:30 PM   #6
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Alignment was done by big o tires, twice, and no they do not road test their work but i made them do it and thats when they told me nothing wrong with my car that i was just the highway surface, i knew right then i was dealing with some real winners, they have had the car on the lift several times and keep saying they cant find anything and again told me its just the road, so i will never go back to them every again wont even trust them to tighten my lug nuts anymore, i took the car to another shop and they said everything looks fine also, i have had the tires balanced 3 times with that other shop, still no change, they are brand new tires, ( problem occurred with the old tires also), as far as the brakes go i did the rotors and pads myself even took them apart and re did them again, still no change, the new rotors almost immediatly after driving on them, then yesterday i went to do a U turn and heard a pop sound, got home and found the sway bar link broke on driver side, so i just replaced the link and still no change, could a bad rack and pinion cause these problems? Atleast the steering issues?

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Old 08-29-2014, 03:10 AM   #7
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engine cradle bushings man. i literally JUST did EVERYTHING you did plus replacing the axles, and still had the problem. the part# is dorman 924-044. ive got it memorized from trying to find the lowest price--- its rock auto by the way. they beat my employee discount on them at advance.

everyone/ everywhere will tell you its a $1,600 job and that its 10 hours, gotta pull the engine etc etc. all you need is a jack, a big *** pry bar and an impact wrench. i believe the bolts are 18mm if i remember correctly. they are grade ten, so i doubt they will break on you. just remove the 2 bolts in the back on one side, get the pry bar between the cradle and the frame and remove them badboys. sometimes the rubber will fuse. i had to chew mine up with a little pry bar to get the bottom half out before they would come out of the top.

here is a link to the video of the GM tech showing what was wrong with my car, and a link to my thread on the issue.







https://www.gmforum.com/buick-172/tr...please-307775/
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:55 AM   #8
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I will check those out! That video shows exactly what my car is doing while breaking, feeling like rotors are warped, i believe my steering issue is the rack and pinion, im replacing that next and now i will be looking into the engine cradle bushings! Thank you for that info!
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