I am still curious about fuel levels. I ask because this gen is known for breaking the baffles in the tank. I have this issue as well. If this is the offender, you would likely have the most issues when you are under 1/2 tank. The lower the tank, the worse it would get.

When I get below 3/8 of a tank, I can get it to stall on command.

There is plenty of fuel, I just filled it up.

I am now leaning toward the Crank sensor. I think the codes I had were from messing with the sensors looking for any change in idle. After I installed the MAF, I cleared the codes before driving. It stalled 5 times on me and each time I checked for codes and there were none. I am leaning toward the Crank sensor because this issue also seems heat related. It never stumbles or stalls until you have been driving 15-20 minutes and the engine is hot. Yesterday, just before the stalling on the way to the Auto parts store I had to climb a large hill. I live in the central Rockies, so this terrain is the norm.

Kimberly, the sensor cannot be returned, I installed it in their parking lot and took the old one in for the core. Won't put us in the poor house, it is just annoying.

Does anybody know if a puller is needed to remove the dampner? A special puller? My Haynes manual says it will pull off, and searching the internet just gives conficting info. on this and the special puller. Can the cranksensor be replaced without removing the dampner? I really do not see how it could.

Thanks for everyone'* input and help.

Doug

I believe a puller is necessary, and you also have to get different bolts, as the ones that come with the puller usually don't work.

I believe he is correct. The puller I bought from Autozone would not work with the existing bolts on the harmonic balancer. I just happened to have some spares in my junkbox and it worked.

If you are having difficulty removing the main balancer bolt, I have heard of people wedging the breaker bar up against the frame and bumping the starter.

Thanks for the info everyone, and thanks Kimberly for the offer for the ICM. That is very nice of you considering that we only know each other from these few posts.

Does anybody know the size/specs of the bolts needed for the harmonic balancer? I live 60 miles from the store so I would want to get the correct bolts when I get the puller. I am thinking I will replace the Crank sensor, and if that does not correct the issue it may go to the garage. I just do not have the time available to continue working on it like I have been.

Thanks for everyone'* help. Hopefully I can return the favor someday.

Doug

Ah ha! Found it!

https://www.gmforum.com/mechanical-134/harmonic-balancer-replacement-286278/

Thanks Mike, I had read that thread previously (not today) and forgot it had the puller bolt information. One question. When re-installing the harmonic balancer, do I need any special tools or a new bolt? I saw there is also a harmonic balancer installer.
Is that necessary? Thanks for all the help. I only play mechanic on the weekend.

Doug

I just looked at the info on Alldata for my 97 B-ville.

So, it is a torque to yield bolt. Much like our head bolts. I have reused the balancer bolt before with no issues.

According to Alldata, it does not require a balancer installer.

You can borrow (w/deposit) the harmonic balancer puller. I think the bolts you need are six millimetre; I will check. On my 93, the harmonic balancer pulley is press fit. The way I removed it was to use a good pair of lock pliers (vice grips) locked onto the flywheel. Then I used a six foot steel pipe and a break bar and I managed to just turn it off. You can get a lot of torque with a six foot steel pipe. It was harder for me to torque it back on. I reused the bolt even though it says not to reused. I found that I had to put pressure on the harmonic pulley, tap it with a rubber mallet, put more pressure, tap with a rubber mallet, and repeat until it easily comes off. I was afraid of trying to pull it off with the six millimetre bolts, poor design; GM should have had it so you could have used larger/stronger bolts since it is pressed on. Or at least my 93 is pressed on. It was just as difficult pulling it off the second time as it was the first time and I lubricated it well. Oh, you may need to heat the crank bolt to break the lock tight they put on it.

By the way, my sister'* Buick with the band crank sensor set no codes with her stalling. Not even when it quit completely, no codes set.

I got the bolts at Lowe'* Home Improvement. M6-1.00 X 65 sold in packs of two. I put a larger nut behind the head for the puller. Class was 8.8; you want to use a high grade bolt so they won't strip out. I was afraid of striping the threads which is why I simply put pressure on the pulley and then tapped it with a rubber mallet and repeated. I reinstalled by coating with grease and using the crank bolt to press it on. I torqued it as much as I could, torque on mine was 110 foot-lbs plus the angle but I simply torque it as much as I could which was maybe 120 foot-lbs (my arm was sore for days).

by the way, in my previous post that was suppose to be bad crank sensor, not band.

If the 92 is the same as my 93, the crank sensor has a pin to locate it so no worry on adjusting it for the vanes. Check the vanes on harmonic pulley to make sure they are OK, no bent ones.