New DVD HU.....UPDATE....new custom illuminated install kit. - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 06-23-2007, 01:00 AM   #31
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Interesting side-effect......

The rear bass amp on the SSE/SSEi for the early 90'* runs off the power antenna feed. But this deck doesn't extend the antenna if a CD or DVD (or satellite/bluetooth) mode is selected. So unless I'm in FM or AM, I don't have any control over the factory bass gain amp.

I'll be moving the bass amp power feed to the blue amp remote turnon output on the deck tomorrow to remedy this.
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Old 06-23-2007, 02:03 AM   #32
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I had to do the exact same thing, twice on both my older SSEis, had I of rememberd this, I would of told you lol
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Old 06-23-2007, 10:17 AM   #33
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It'* very clear to me now that it was the factory head unit holding me back. This deck absolutely woke up the factory speakers and amp.
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:25 AM   #34
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Another issue.......I think I'm going to 'hotwire' my old stereo into the car so I can retain my VF dimming control for the ECC. There'* room to tuck it in there, or maybe even in the trunk and run wires under the carpet.

To retain the VF dimming of the ECC, I'll only need 4 wires connected to the old stereo.

1. Connector C1 pin 9 (Yellow). This is the Fuse 24 feed that powers the solid state driver board in the stereo.

2. Connector C1 pin 6 (dk green). This is the dim signal input from the headlight switch.

3. Connector C1 pin 5 (black). This is chassis/circuit ground for the whole stereo.

4. Connector C4 (steering wheel control plug) pin 3 (purple/wht). This wire will exit the stereo and jumper into the ECC (pin 2) to provide the dim signal.

The signal isn't a 12v or ground. It'* a variable frequency signal that cannot be duplicated or 'tricked'.

The old stereo will not have to have retained accessory power, or ever be turned on. It may also be possible to pull the solid state driver board out and run it seperately, but I'd rather have this in a closed box.

The alternative is to upgrade to the 94 ECC and do the rewiring per techinfo, but I'd have to give up my self-diagnostic 93 ECC, which I'm not willing to do. The ECC'* from 93 and older have the capability to pull diagnostics from alot of other systems in the car, not just the climate control.
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:01 AM   #35
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Sorry to ask I know its a little off topic but, I have a question about the ECC, as I have a 92.
I was thinking about switching from the ECC to a Manual control because I don't like not being able to select vent only, etc.
My question is this.......What diagnostics specifically can the ECC perform that you can't find out using a scan tool ?

Nice HU by the way

Thanks,
Dutch
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:13 AM   #36
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Techinfo has a procedure for extracting codes. Those codes comprise 1/3 of the possibilities. Do you have an FSM? It'll tell you all of them, and you'll need them to access the codes. There are several pages of instructions involving the diagnostics.

You can upgrade to a newer ECC and gain control of the vents, but you have to upgrade the programmer and the ECC head unit at the same time. It'll cost you diagnostics though.

Switching to manual wouldn't be worth your time. It would be very involved.
Your question doesn't relate to an audio install, though, so this isn't the best place to cover it.
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:28 AM   #37
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Nice radio ... where'* the pics?

On the install.. remember back to my 95 install... the amp power was a specific pin in the harness and simply using the remote amp lead works great.

Can you please post up how it is part of the antenna circuit so that we can better document it.
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:35 AM   #38
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The amp power simply Tee'* off the antenna power wire. It'* the same feed. Same frank color too. Pink. I'll run a new wire to the amp from the remote turn-on, and disconnect the amp from the antenna lead altogether so the deck can control them both seperately. If I moved both the amp and the antenna power to the remote, the antenna would be up at all times, but if I leave the amp on the remote, and the antenna on the pink, the antenna won't be up when I'm in a different mode other than radio, and the amp will be powered at all times.
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:56 AM   #39
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Keep in mind I'll be moving the QTP controller to my old RAZR mount (properly modified of course) and removing the barely visible Motorola Hands-Free kit and shipping it to Florida. It works with the older V500/V600 series phones.

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Thanks also go out to SSEMotorhead for the nearly-mint ECC head. It was installed at the same time. My original had buttons 'breaking through'.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:38 PM   #40
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You need a flush mount dash kit.
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