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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 11-06-2010, 11:20 PM   #11
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Adding a second Battery and using it only to power the Audio is still the best way regardless of the Big 3, 5, whatever. It allows the audio amp to immediately compensate when what it'* amplifying requires sudden frequency changes. An alternator can't react quick enough to not degrade sound. Too many people only see the power aspect and not the quality of sound situation. As music changes notes and volume within a song, it requires different power output. The amp has to have a reliable full time power source to make frequency transitions smoothly. Not wait for the Alt to sense and step up the voltage.

Edit:
I am not in anyway saying the Big 3 isn't a good thing. But I see people picking and choosing/debating all the time. Each item had a specific value in making a good system. It'* not a matter of one over another. It'* about covering all your bases, or don't bother.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:56 PM   #12
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thanks a lot everyone. I just have a few more questions. 1. What amp would be perfect to push these subs without over or underpowering them? If you can link me to something from sonicelectronix, that would be great. 2. Should I add an extra battery in the trunk or not? lol. 3. Does anyone around here build boxes and can tune one to the specs of the sub? I'd be willing to pay for it as long as it'* a reasonable price. This is partially a Christmas gift to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank guys
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
I was planning on getting 2 Kicker CVR'* *These to be exact* http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...al+4+ohm-.html . would I need to replace my alternator to accompany these subs? Like I've previously said, I want the minimum amount of dimming in my car. And I also don't want to burn out my alternator. Would a battery in the trunk help at all?
It'* highly unlikely you'd need to replace your alternator...However, the determining factor is going to be what amp you use and the wiring used. Not all amps are created the same, some are more efficient than others. I used to run a cheap Phoenix Gold Ryval 600 watt amp (IIRC) and my lights dimmed bad. I then upgraded to an AudioQue AQ1200 (at 2 ohms it put out 870rms) and I had noticeably less dimming. I then upgraded to a Sundown SAZ-1500D (1500+rms @ 1ohm) and even less dimming. Makes no sense, right? On the Phoenix Gold amp I was running 8ga. power wire, when I upgraded to the AQ1200 I upgraded my powe wire to 2ga. and am running the same wire on my SAZ-1500D. So the moral of the story is use the biggest wire your amp can handle for your power wire and remember that when it comes to amps, most of the time you get what you pay for.

I can't imagine you having much dimming at this power level so long as you buy a quality amp so I think another battery would be a good idea since your alternator shouldn't be stressed too bad.

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Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
I also don't know if I should have them in a bandpass, sealed or ported box.
Well, what is your goal for this setup? What kind of music do you listen to? Bandpass and ported boxes are usually on the larger side while sealed are smaller than them both. Bandpass boxes get a bad rap, I think mainly because the one'* people see most of the time are prefab that may or may not have the proper volume and/or tuning for the subs being used in them. But when built right, bandpass boxes are nice! Especially 4th order bandpass. They can give you a nice flat response while diggin' low and loud. Ported boxes are the most common type of box, they're generally louder than the other two setups but if not built right can result in a peaky response curve with the peak coming at or near the tuning frequency of the box. Sealed boxes are commonly referred to as the type of box to use for SQ setups but I think that'* more of a myth as a properly built ported box can sound just as good as a sealed one. But the size difference between a sealed box and a ported one makes sealed more attractive to someone not wanting to take up that much space in the trunk. They make life easy too because they are easier to build, take away alot of headaches like figuring out the proper tuning frequency, eliminate the need to use and set the subsonic filter on your amp and they increase the power handling of your subs too.

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Originally Posted by raptor660 View Post
Bandpass is useless.. just for looks.
Buddy of mine has a 2004 Impala with a 4th order bandpass box that'* ported through the armrest in the backseat that will blow your wig back It'* not a pretty box at all, no plexiglass, no neons, nothing fancy about it but it gets down with the best of them

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Originally Posted by rmac694203 View Post
If you get a properly designed and built ported box it shouldn't be overly boomy. My sub sounds controlled and accurate, and not to mention quite loud. Bandpass boxes can sound good if they are designed and built right, but are difficult to do and not feasible for the average Joe.
This man speaks the truth! I agree 100%

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Originally Posted by PaulBennett View Post
If you are worried about your alternator, why not add an additional battery for your audio and charge it up before heading out. I never understood why some add capacitors when a battery makes more sense and does a better job of stabilizing voltage.
I agree on the battery vs. capacitor thing, but I think if the alternator is a concern then the alternator should be upgraded instead of adding more current draws to an already overdrawn charging system.

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Originally Posted by raptor660 View Post
Well when u add a second battery ur alt is trying to keep both charged, if u install an isolator then ur system is only running off the batt in the trunk and u can still experience voltage drop.... but dont quote me just yet... gotta check my notes. i reserched this topic a while backbut i got a chitty memory.
So doing a big 3 upgrade and larger alt does more than adding a second batt or a cap
Each item has it'* place, it'* role, in a properly designed system. If you're experiencing dimming it'* usually due to your alt not putting out enough amps to feed everything so you'd need a higher output alt. Big 3 helps get that current to where it needs to go and an extra battery or 4 helps stabilize the voltage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GXP Venom View Post
Adding a second Battery and using it only to power the Audio is still the best way regardless of the Big 3, 5, whatever. It allows the audio amp to immediately compensate when what it'* amplifying requires sudden frequency changes. An alternator can't react quick enough to not degrade sound. Too many people only see the power aspect and not the quality of sound situation. As music changes notes and volume within a song, it requires different power output. The amp has to have a reliable full time power source to make frequency transitions smoothly. Not wait for the Alt to sense and step up the voltage.

Edit:
I am not in anyway saying the Big 3 isn't a good thing. But I see people picking and choosing/debating all the time. Each item had a specific value in making a good system. It'* not a matter of one over another. It'* about covering all your bases, or don't bother.
Exactly!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
What amp would be perfect to push these subs without over or underpowering them? If you can link me to something from sonicelectronix, that would be great. 2. Should I add an extra battery in the trunk or not? lol. 3. Does anyone around here build boxes and can tune one to the specs of the sub? I'd be willing to pay for it as long as it'* a reasonable price. This is partially a Christmas gift to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank guys
First thing, going with dual 4 ohm subs is going to limit you to running your amp at either 4 ohms or 1 ohm, good luck finding an affordable, quality amp that can do 800rms at 4 ohms. My suggestion would be to go with dual 2 ohm subs so you can wire them to 2 ohms, the amount of distortion will be less at 2 ohms than at 1 ohm and it will be a lighter draw on your electrical system.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...al+2+ohm-.html

Since those subs can handle about 800rms for the pair, I highly suggest the AudioQue AQ1200. It is an underground brand that has been making noise lately and for all the right reasons, their product means business! No pretty logo'*, no fancy cases, no neons or other bling, just a rock solid product that'* as dependable as they come and for an affordable price. Their amps are underrated too, so while this amp is rated at 1200rms @ 1 ohm, it can do well over 1400 rms with the proper electrical to feed it. You can have this amp for $250 shipped direct from the manufacturer, it will put out 870rms x 1 @ 2 ohms. And should you ever decide to upgrade your subs, you'll still have more power on tap as if you get the right subs you can wire them down to 1 ohm to get 1200+rms out of this thing.

http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26

Those would be my suggestions
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:24 PM   #14
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As for the box (forgot about that), I highly suggest you get in touch with Mike at Ami Creations, that man is a magician when it comes to speaker box design and fabrication. He can ship you a completed box for $190, or the same box but you would assemble it per his enclosed instructions and finish it (carpet or paint) for $95. Hit him up, he'll tell you all about it.

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Old 11-12-2010, 02:03 AM   #15
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you are a LIFE SAVER! now, if I could ask one more thing of you. Can you link me to everything that is essential in building this system such as the wiring I would need. I plan on going with the subs you linked me with and most likely that amp. especially for that price for the amp, you can't go wrong. are there any amps on sonic that would go with these subs perfectly without over or underpowering? thank you so much for your help.
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:05 PM   #16
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Alright. I found these that I have my eyes on. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...7DCVR122-.html. So adding an extra battery is what I should do? No cap? What type of wiring do I need for the subs and the amp? Does the amp that was posted previously still good enough for these? I want to power them perfectly. No underpowering.

These are the same ones correct?
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...07DCVR122.aspx

The reason I ask if because Sonic is out of stock and I want to order them soon.
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
Alright. I found these that I have my eyes on. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...7DCVR122-.html. So adding an extra battery is what I should do? No cap? What type of wiring do I need for the subs and the amp? Does the amp that was posted previously still good enough for these? I want to power them perfectly. No underpowering.

These are the same ones correct?
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...07DCVR122.aspx

The reason I ask if because Sonic is out of stock and I want to order them soon.
What you should do depends on how bad your electrical system is. I can't imagine you're gonna need to add anything extra to run the AQ1200 @ 2 ohms. I ran mine like that nicely with little voltage loss and little dimming, as in non-existent for the most part. So what I'd do is hook everything up and see what the results are and then go from there. The AQ1200 will do every bit of 870rms, and then some, so long as you can feed it good, stable voltage and will be plenty to power those subs.

To hook up your amp you need an amp wiring kit, they usually have power/ground/remote/speaker wire, fuse and fuse block, some even include rca'*, distribution block, zip ties, connectors, etc. The AQ1200 accepts 4ga power wire maximum, so you're gonna need a good 4ga. amp wiring kit.

Right now, if you order this Rockford CP4CKDS kit for $80, you'll get a free upgrade to this Kicker HyperFlex 09ZCK4 kit that has everything you'll need to get that amp wired up and making noise!
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:38 AM   #18
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Alright, so I've finally made my decision. I will be getting the CVR'* http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ual-2-ohm.html along with this box http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ay-Carpet.html . I will be ordering everything in a few days when I get back from Florida. Now, I need to know what I should do because I will be installing them once I receive them. I'm ordering the amp as well. I believe this is the amp... http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html .What I need to know is what exactly should I do to my car as in electrical. My bonne for some reason drops voltage when at an idle or when turning the wheel. I don't want it to damage my system. I need a lot of help. . Also, if that amp isn't as good and you can find something better, for around the same price, suggestions are welcome. One more thing, if that bandpass box isn't as good either, suggestions are also welcome but I am mainly looking for a bandpass box. I've heard nothing but good things about them and have seen my cousins sony Xplod turned into a half decent sub. haha. Please, I need help. Thanks guys.
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:57 AM   #19
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Sorry to double post, but I went on onlinecarstereo and found other bandpass boxes. I found this one http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...er_PBP212.aspx and this one http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...er_BPR212.aspx . Can anyone tell me which one is best for the Kickers? I'm looking for the best possible bass I can get with a bandpass.
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
Alright, so I've finally made my decision. I will be getting the CVR'* http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ual-2-ohm.html along with this box http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ay-Carpet.html . I will be ordering everything in a few days when I get back from Florida. Now, I need to know what I should do because I will be installing them once I receive them. I'm ordering the amp as well. I believe this is the amp... http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html .What I need to know is what exactly should I do to my car as in electrical. My bonne for some reason drops voltage when at an idle or when turning the wheel. I don't want it to damage my system. I need a lot of help. . Also, if that amp isn't as good and you can find something better, for around the same price, suggestions are welcome. One more thing, if that bandpass box isn't as good either, suggestions are also welcome but I am mainly looking for a bandpass box. I've heard nothing but good things about them and have seen my cousins sony Xplod turned into a half decent sub. haha. Please, I need help. Thanks guys.
Good luck finding an amp of the quality as that AQ, that does that much power, for that price. Only way that'* gonna happen is if you find something used. As for what you need to do to your cars electrical? No clue! If your car is dropping voltage when you turn the wheel, I think that'* something you'd need to find and fix before putting a system in, unless you like the smell of burnt amps.

As for bandpass boxes, they can be good, real good, but i've yet to hear a prefab bandpass that did. If you're dead set on a bandpass, I highly suggest you hit up Ami Creations and have him either build one for you or see if he can do up a DIY one for you, on the DIY boxes he cuts the panels, marks where the holes should be drilled and you just gotta drill, glue and screw and you have a custom made box. Or, if you can cut and build it yourself, he does designs only too and will provide you with a cut sheet.
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