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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 08-15-2011, 07:44 PM   #101
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Sorry I didn't get here soon enough. Thanks for reminding me. Can you give me a quick run down of what'* going on and what you need help with? 10 pages is one heck of a long thread.
Here'* a quote from me on DIYMA

"My alt is 140 Amps. I'm getting a new OEM alternator soon. my car has been dropping voltage for absolutely no reason. It'* random and it kinda scares me. So I want to replace the alternator, the battery under the hood, add a yellow top in the trunk and do the Big 3. She'* a 99 Bonneville with almost 200K on her. I can't afford to lose her or the equipment. lol. So how many red and how many black terminals? And about how many feet for the big 3? I'm having my friends dad do the big 3 for me after he throws the new alternator in"

Also, on a side note...what can I use to cut the wires without messing them up? Monte has been absent lately. I think I've bothered him a bit too much :/

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Originally Posted by xtremerevolution View Post
Ha, so you reached your PM box limit on diyma because you don't have enough posts there yet. In any case, just give me a run down of all the questions you need answered.
Yea I know. lol. I deleted the 5 allowed messages already. lol
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:09 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
Here'* a quote from me on DIYMA

"My alt is 140 Amps. I'm getting a new OEM alternator soon. my car has been dropping voltage for absolutely no reason. It'* random and it kinda scares me. So I want to replace the alternator, the battery under the hood, add a yellow top in the trunk and do the Big 3. She'* a 99 Bonneville with almost 200K on her. I can't afford to lose her or the equipment. lol. So how many red and how many black terminals? And about how many feet for the big 3? I'm having my friends dad do the big 3 for me after he throws the new alternator in"

Also, on a side note...what can I use to cut the wires without messing them up? Monte has been absent lately. I think I've bothered him a bit too much :/


Yea I know. lol. I deleted the 5 allowed messages already. lol
15 feet for the big 3 should be enough. I don't know what power wires the Bonneville has that would need to be replaced. Honestly, you'd be better off just measuring them yourself, but 15 feet should do it. I'd say 2 gauge copper should be good, do not use CCA in the engine bay!

Terminals are just for show. You really just need 2 gauge copper terminals.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-GAUGE-COPPER-U...#ht_2880wt_952

That'* for 5, I'd say you need two sets if you're going to do 3 wires.

I'm making a writeup on how to do this yourself soon, so it might be of some use to you, but here'* a quick run-down of what you need to do.

Put a few pieces of solder that you cut off a roll into the terminal. Place the wire inside the terminal with about 1/2" of the plastic cut off. Then, heat up the terminal with a propane or mapp gas torch. With a pair of pliers, push down on the terminal once the solder inside has thoroughly melted. The terminal will slide over the outer casing and melt it, sealing some of the melted plastic inside. The result will be a terminal that will never get loose, and will be sealed well from the elements. Repeat from the other side, then tighten down the terminal to flatten it out.

I just used a sheet metal cutter to cut the wire. With those kinds of terminals, the solder pieces melt through everything anyway.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:22 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by xtremerevolution View Post
15 feet for the big 3 should be enough. I don't know what power wires the Bonneville has that would need to be replaced. Honestly, you'd be better off just measuring them yourself, but 15 feet should do it. I'd say 2 gauge copper should be good, do not use CCA in the engine bay!

Terminals are just for show. You really just need 2 gauge copper terminals.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-GAUGE-COPPER-U...#ht_2880wt_952

That'* for 5, I'd say you need two sets if you're going to do 3 wires.

I'm making a writeup on how to do this yourself soon, so it might be of some use to you, but here'* a quick run-down of what you need to do.

Put a few pieces of solder that you cut off a roll into the terminal. Place the wire inside the terminal with about 1/2" of the plastic cut off. Then, heat up the terminal with a propane or mapp gas torch. With a pair of pliers, push down on the terminal once the solder inside has thoroughly melted. The terminal will slide over the outer casing and melt it, sealing some of the melted plastic inside. The result will be a terminal that will never get loose, and will be sealed well from the elements. Repeat from the other side, then tighten down the terminal to flatten it out.

I just used a sheet metal cutter to cut the wire. With those kinds of terminals, the solder pieces melt through everything anyway.
I'm ordering all of my wires from KnuKoncepts. I'm putting the 0 gauge in for the Big 3.

The terminals you gave me links for are red and the others are black though. From KnuKoncepts. That'* what I was asking about lol.

I can't solder for the life of me so I was going to crimp instead. Would you happen to have some sort of write up on how to crimp and what I would need to crimp?
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:26 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
I'm ordering all of my wires from KnuKoncepts. I'm putting the 0 gauge in for the Big 3.

The terminals you gave me links for are red and the others are black though. From KnuKoncepts. That'* what I was asking about lol.

I can't solder for the life of me so I was going to crimp instead. Would you happen to have some sort of write up on how to crimp and what I would need to crimp?
No soldering needed. Read my post again. all you're doing is sticking bits of solder inside the terminal, then taking a mapp gas or propane torch to it to heat it up to melt the solder. Its really quite simple. Doesn't really matter what color they are so long as it works. I VERY highly recommend you use this method to prevent corrosion in the wire later. Open crimp terminals will cause you issues down the road.
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:10 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by xtremerevolution View Post
No soldering needed. Read my post again. all you're doing is sticking bits of solder inside the terminal, then taking a mapp gas or propane torch to it to heat it up to melt the solder. Its really quite simple. Doesn't really matter what color they are so long as it works. I VERY highly recommend you use this method to prevent corrosion in the wire later. Open crimp terminals will cause you issues down the road.
Ahhhh. I'm a bit slow :/. lol. I can have someone I work with do that for me. He said he could earlier today. I'm going to be ordering the wires to do the Big 3 soon. So it doesn't matter what color the terminals are right? Just to be absolutely positive. lol. I'm sorry :/. I'm going to do different color wires just so they're all not the same. lol. Also, you said you could design the box right? I work across the street from a wood shop type thing and the guy does great work. I went over there yesterday and asked if he could build the box and how much. He said he'd never done it before but if I got all of the dimensions and everything I'd need to build the box, he'd do it for $40. That'* just the price of the wood. . I was wondering if you'd be able to design the box for me. I want the maximum output of the subs. I would need all of the dimensions of the box and the chamber and all of that. I'm sorry if that'* a lot to ask. Let me know if you could and what you would need to know. Thank you bro.
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Old 08-24-2011, 05:39 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by 99BonneSLE View Post
Ahhhh. I'm a bit slow :/. lol. I can have someone I work with do that for me. He said he could earlier today. I'm going to be ordering the wires to do the Big 3 soon. So it doesn't matter what color the terminals are right? Just to be absolutely positive. lol. I'm sorry :/. I'm going to do different color wires just so they're all not the same. lol. Also, you said you could design the box right? I work across the street from a wood shop type thing and the guy does great work. I went over there yesterday and asked if he could build the box and how much. He said he'd never done it before but if I got all of the dimensions and everything I'd need to build the box, he'd do it for $40. That'* just the price of the wood. . I was wondering if you'd be able to design the box for me. I want the maximum output of the subs. I would need all of the dimensions of the box and the chamber and all of that. I'm sorry if that'* a lot to ask. Let me know if you could and what you would need to know. Thank you bro.
Wire color is only for your own reference, that'* all. Red or black, doesn't matter. I can design a box. Make a post in that thread on diyma and I'll model one up for you.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...g-service.html
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:57 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by xtremerevolution View Post
Wire color is only for your own reference, that'* all. Red or black, doesn't matter. I can design a box. Make a post in that thread on diyma and I'll model one up for you.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...g-service.html
I appreciate this bro. I'm really excited honestly. I'm ordering the amp hopefully on Sunday night or Monday. Then the wires will be ordered. I checked out the thread and I'm kinda confused as to what you would need

Quote:
1. Subwoofer'* T/* parameters
Fs (Hz)
Re (ohms) - if available
Le (mH) - if available
Vas (liters)
Qes
Qms
Sd (cm2)
Xmax
2. Sub box dimensions and port tuning if applicable (If its already built. If its not built, give me the max dimensions it can occupy)

3. The year, make, and model of the car being modeled
4. Length from firewall to back door/trunklid/tail lights. Basically, the largest non-diagonal internal dimension in your car.
5. Distance from center of subwoofer to floor
6. Distance from center of subwoofer to nearest side wall
7. Distance from subwoofer to the wall behind it


8. Amplifer RMS power available
9. Amplifier'* high pass/subsonic filter options including slope. For example, "10-60hz 12db/octave"

10. What'* your primary goal? Sound quality, SPL, best use of currently available box, etc.
What I bolded is what I'm confused about. lol. And after it'* modeled, you provide me with dimensions and everything right? I'm really sorry about this.
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Old 08-27-2011, 02:39 PM   #108
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I appreciate this bro. I'm really excited honestly. I'm ordering the amp hopefully on Sunday night or Monday. Then the wires will be ordered. I checked out the thread and I'm kinda confused as to what you would need



What I bolded is what I'm confused about. lol. And after it'* modeled, you provide me with dimensions and everything right? I'm really sorry about this.
I need the distance the subwoofer driver (the center of the cone itself) will be from the floor.

I need the distance from the center of the cone to the nearest side wall

I need the distance from the front baffle (the panel the sub mounts to) from the wall behind it

I need to know the maximum dimensions you have to work with.
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Old 08-27-2011, 07:24 PM   #109
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99Bonne, don't worry man, you can't give him measurements for 5-7 since your box isn't built yet.
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:48 PM   #110
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99Bonne, don't worry man, you can't give him measurements for 5-7 since your box isn't built yet.
Alright so I'm not completely stupid. Phew...thank God. lol .
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