amp won't turn on -- sooooo frustrated!!!!!!!! - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 03-16-2008, 04:20 AM   #21
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Attach one piece of wire to one end/side of a 1 or 2 amp fuse. Take a second piece of wire and connect it to the other end/side of the same fuse. Attach one of the wires to the 'REM' terminal on your amplifier and attach the other wire to the positive post of the battery. Check to see if the POWER LED illuminates. The BATT and GND wires must also be connected to the amp.

You still haven't told me if you have a volt meter or not
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:08 AM   #22
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Allow me to clairify if I may.

What DDalder is trying to tell you is this..........Almost every amplifer made for cars needs to have 3 different power wires to work.

1) Main power feed to the amplifer attached to the Positive post of the Battery. This wire should be fused with in 2 feet of the Battery post.
This wire is used to provide the Amp with lots of power because the draw is greater the more you turn the volume up. Typically 8 - 4 gauge is sufficent for most Amplifers.

2) You need to have a good ground to the Amp. This wire should be within 4 feet of the Amp. The ground point should be a solid piece of metal on the body or frame and should be sanded so that it is free of paint.
This wire should also be the same gauge as your main power feed from the Battery.
DO NOT run this wire back to the Negative post of the Battery as the Amplifer needs to be able to dump power as quick as possible.

3) Remote Turn On wire is a small gauge wire (18 g) that Signals the amp to turn on because the Headunit is on.
With most HU there is a wire that sends a Turn on signal to the amplifer if the vehicle has one, or if using an aftermarket HU.
This wire is usually only providing 500mA of power, just enough to tell the amplifer to stay on while the HU is on.
For this wire you can also use a Switched Accessory but the amplifer will stay on as long as the key is in any position other than the Off position.
If you are not using an aftermarket HU then be sure to fuse this wire with no more than a 5 amp fuse.

These are the power wires that are needed to turn on the Amplifer.

Don't forget you still need to get musical signal into the amp. Since you don't have RCA output on a factory HU you will need to tap into the rear speakers for signal or use a line level adapter.

Regards,
Dutch
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:04 AM   #23
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ok i understand what you mean... i had a buddy install it that said he knew what he was doing...and yeah i've been doing quite a bit of research and found that he may not be so smart... i found that the fuse in the power(+ from battery) should be within the first foot..closer if possible and he put it close to the amp... i also read that the ground shouldn't be longer than 2 feet and pretty sure it is about 4-6 feet... n yeah he screwed some other wiring up as well so i pretty much have to re-do everything he did and after reading about this for the last day i think i may now know more than he does
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:53 PM   #24
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This all sounds frustrating for you. Try this please. Connect the ground to the amp and the power to the amp. Then between the two cables should be another connection on the amp. That is the remote turn on. Since it seems we are having trouble explaining this to you, or you are not clearly understanding, take a small gauge of wire and cross it over from the POSITIVE terminal on the amp, to the REMOTE. This is a direct path and direct instruction for the amp to turn on. If this does not work, take the amp out of the trunk or wherever your have it and connect it to a good working battery. Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative and another positive to the REMOTE turn-on. This needs to turn the amp on. At the minimum you should have the LED for the amp to turn on. If you do not see anything then either the fuse(*) are blown or the battery is dead. If they are both good, the amp is bad.


Good Luck.
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PortugalFocus
...take a small gauge of wire and cross it over from the POSITIVE terminal on the amp, to the REMOTE. This is a direct path and direct instruction for the amp to turn on.
Although this should not cause a problem, if something is wrong with the amp this is not a good idea. This is why I suggested using a fused wire to accomplish this.

At the same time, life would be a whole lot easier if he could verify there is at least battery voltage at the amp with a multimeter. Hopefully after having done a little research he'll be able to better understand proper installation protocol and can successfully complete this.
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Old 03-17-2008, 10:05 PM   #26
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alright guys thanks for all your help ddalder i got it figured out and i have everything working now!!!!!!!! heres.........um $10?? ha thanks again
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