hey guys I need some serious help. my passenger side rear window stopped working yesterday and it won't go up but isn't all the way down either. a few more symptoms are, when I hit the switch it sounds like I hear the cable flapping around inside the door, when I took the door off the cable also looked kinda like it may have been broken. my question is though, how do I know if I need to repair my regulator, motor, or the cable? I read the techinfo article about the regulator but didn't know if that was the procedure that I should just follow or if there was something else I should do. please help me guys. I wanna fix it asap before it rains

That'* the classic symptom for the window regulator failure. Don't try to operate the window, as it will make a real mess of the cables.

depending on where you look, my regulator was 190.00. Keep the motor from the old one as a spare. theyre not cheap. If anyone knows of a place to get inexpensive regulators besides NAPA, otherwise thats the best price i could find.

If all else fails...duct tape is mans best friend and a universal problem solver.

If you're up to it, try the repair first. If not, check Ebay. Some are selling a Dorman replacement for I think around $90. At least one member was happy with it.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegul...ampaign=NexTag

I found this. It is the regulator, cable, and motor for $99.99 with a lifetime warranty. I think I am gonna go with this. What do you guys think?

Brian, I ordered the regulator for the left rear window on my 2001 from 1Aauto two days ago. I'll let you know what it'* like--perceived quality, similarity/differences from OEM-- when it gets here.

The window was lowered and would not go back up while my wife was driving the car. Attempting to raise the window severely kinked one of the cables and destroyed the ridges on the plastic spool. I've got the window held in the up position now by use of a piece of 1/2 inch diameter PEX plumbing pipe about 8 inches long placed into the window track. After seeing the price of a replacement regulator, I seriously debated leaving the PEX in place...didn't figure I'd ever really need to drop the rear windows. But I decided to see what the aftermarket has to offer as a regulator replacement. Besides, to me this is how a car slowly turns to junk; little things are let go and soon add up.
Lets see if I still believe that after I've had to change out all the regulators!

FWIW - I've had good luck with the repair with several kinks and bends in the cable, as well as the ridges on the spool being virtually gone.

If anyone plans on throwing away their old regulators, please send them to me instead. PM me if interested.

Archon, I'll keep you in mind if I decide to get rid of the OEM regulator.

I got the aftermarket regulator today from 1A Auto; tomorrow I hope to get it installed. I'll get photos of it and the original regulator and post them here for comparison if anyone is interested.
Right off, I can state that the aftermarket one is made in China...I guess that surprises no one. Its design is a bit different than the original, but it shares the same fault as the original in that the cable ends are held in the plastic of the sled and I can see them pulling through the plastic eventually. The motor is different than the original, too. My initial opinion is that the aftermarket one is made more cheaply than the OEM unit, if that'* possible. I'll know more after I get it installed and tested out.

I have the exact same problem on the exact same window. This will be the third regulator I've had to replace. I might as well change out the front passenger window as well before it goes bad. I know it'll happen sooner or later, lol. There'* a dude on Ebay who sells regulators for a good price, and the quality is excellent. I'm sure there are several on there for decent deals. Good luck with it. Hopefully I'll get mine done next week.

Here'* some photos of the aftermarket replacement regulator from 1A Auto for the driver'* side rear window:

Interior side of the regulator:




Exterior side of the regulator:




Close up of the sled and the method of cable termination:




Like I stated above, I'm not convinced that this design is any better than the original OEM one. I hope to get this installed later today.