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2000-2005 Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, and SSEi Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-04-2009, 01:56 PM   #11
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No, it might shorten the life of your O2 sensor a bit. So if your thinking about changing that, do a seafoam first.
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:55 PM   #12
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was this problem solved?? I have the same exact problem and trouble code with my 2001 bonne SE. I think it might be bad gas tho, I was a little less than a quarter tank, put in $20 worth from Shell. Got on I-10, eveything running fine, I-10 to I-310, which is a ten minute ride to my exit. Got off on the exit and coasted to a stop at the traffic light. After the light turned green i attempted to accelerate and got mega hesistation! no warnings just mega hesitation. If i ease the gas pedal the car runs fine, but if i try to punch it, it hesitates like a *****-------. Took car to auto zone, P0300 and P0300. Same code twice in one scan. 1 of 2 and 2 of 2 were both P0300, is there a significant meaning to this? Car has 140,000 miles and catalytic converter was stolen, and replaced. It was still under warranty so the finance company got it repaired about 4 months ago. people in new orleans steal EVERYTHING!! but i do not think the welds are very good. they look sloppy. car is very loud at startup until rpms rev down to a little of 500rpms. please i would like to know if a common problem was found. while at autozone i purchased new plugs and wires and replaced them myself. still running the same, I put a bottle of stp fuel system cleaner in, still running bad, i put a bottle of lucas fuel system treatment in, still running bad. ive read on here that the ignition control module could be the problem with the P0300 (random/multiple misfire). Please help!!
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:11 PM   #13
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I think one of the problems we were checking was fuel pressure. Bad gas can cause problems. I always suggest to people, never cheep out on gas. Stick with good stations. I get all my gas from BP and never had problems. If you do have bad gas it will take a while to clear out. Run tank as low as possible and then fill with good gas. The fuel filter may need to be changed as well.
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:23 PM   #14
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on the fuel pressure regulator, there is a valve with a black cap. plug fuel pressure gauge to that and what should normal psi be? Also when starting the car, from it being cold, there is a very loud fuel smell mixed with exhaust.
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #15
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I think it'* like 40 to 50 psi, in that area.
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:31 PM   #16
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Haven't solved mine yet, but my work schedule limits the amount of time I have to my days off, for the most part.

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Old 01-05-2009, 09:38 PM   #17
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Sounds like the same problem I am having with my 02 SSEI. I was afraid it may have been the tranny, cause the way it felt like it was slipping. I dont know much about how to work on it though. I get the flashing check engine when I accelerate hard also. I need to check codes. Keep me informed with what u find.
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:39 PM   #18
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Sounds like the same problem I am having with my 02 SSEI. I was afraid it may have been the tranny, cause the way it felt like it was slipping. I dont know much about how to work on it though. I get the flashing check engine when I accelerate hard also. I need to check codes. Keep me informed with what u find. I always run 87 octane, is this bad for the engine?
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Old 01-06-2009, 12:12 AM   #19
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the only thing i havent changed was my fuel filter and ignition module, (Fuel Pressure regulator is fine and not leaking). Odd because when my motor is warm or hot it accelerates pretty good, but when cold it runs as if theres water pissing in few of the cylinders.
BTW i cant change teh fuel filter because the fuel lines are so rusted im scared ill end up cracking teh line, plus i changed teh ignition module i bought from the scrap yard and ended up frying it within 5 min of driving, ended up pushing the damn car. I'll try seamfoaimg the upper part of the motor when it warms up here in Canada.
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Old 01-06-2009, 03:24 PM   #20
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Problem SOLVED!!!! YES!!! After changing the fuel filter, there was no improvement. I got very frustrated. I got back on here and found a post that described how to test the ignition coils without an ohm meter or any other fancy device. I followed the procedure that was listed in the post and found that one of my ignition coils was bad. I went to O'Reilly and got a brand new ignition coil with a one year warranty for $19.99. I put it on in the parking lot and WA-LAH!!! no more hesitation!! can accelerate without any problems. And whats better, the engine feels like it has more power than before. That ignition coil, must have been on its way out for a long time, and finally gave out. Anyway, I am copying and pasting the exact instructions from the post that I followed. Good Luck and I hope this helps, and to the guy who posted this information, 93RedSled-SSE, Big-ups and THANKS A BUNCH DUDE!!! Here is the post:
My 93 had these symptoms and I chased the problem for weeks. I also had new wires and plugs. The coils all passed the resistance checks.
Anyway, crapping out with acceleration and/or load is often ignition related.
Q: Have you notice and spitting at idle?
Here is a quick and easy check to see if you have one or more cylinders that are not up to par in the ignition department. It may find a coil or 2 going bad. This is a "live" test, rather than just the resistance check.
1. Start motor and let it calm down a little (should only take a few seconds to a min. or so)
2. Unplug the IAC valve (near the TPS on the throttle body and is a black cylinder shaped item)... not to exceed 2 min. at a time.
3. Pull the plug wires off at the coils one at a time. I like to use rubber handled pliers and rubber gloves. It will still give you a little tickle when the wire is put back on.
OR, an option would be to shut it off in between, put the wire back on and then restart to check the next one and so on. It needs to be running when you pull one though. Plus the "tickle" doesn't come when you remove the wire, it'* when you put it back on.
4. When you pull a wire off a GOOD coil output, it is normal for arcing back to the coil body. So, if it does NOT arc, suspect an issue with that coil output. It can be bad on one output of the two and the other to work okay.
If you suspect a coil, you can do a resistance measurement across the 2 output terminals. I believe it would be around 15k ohms on a good one; or infinity (open) on a zapped one.

Last edited by pdudley11; 01-06-2009 at 03:26 PM.
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