2000-2005 COMMON PROBLEMS .......and solutions
07-13-2008, 10:56 AM
#102
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WOW...I had NONE of these problems with my 1997 Bonne, but just about all of em with my 2002.
I will say this though, I managed to find a wheel bearing online from AUTOPARTSDIRECTTOYOU.COM for about $90 and replaced it myself, however the main bolt was VERY difficult to remove (after 108K miles and 5 Buffalo winters), required heating the bolt and alotta elbow grease.
I also replaced my rear stut mounts myself, bought the parts from Petboys, think they were about $50. I took longer to lift the car up than it did to replace the part, very simple.
I will say this though, I managed to find a wheel bearing online from AUTOPARTSDIRECTTOYOU.COM for about $90 and replaced it myself, however the main bolt was VERY difficult to remove (after 108K miles and 5 Buffalo winters), required heating the bolt and alotta elbow grease.
I also replaced my rear stut mounts myself, bought the parts from Petboys, think they were about $50. I took longer to lift the car up than it did to replace the part, very simple.
07-27-2008, 04:25 PM
#103
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Just found this on edmunds...
It lists all the problems, with their dealer solutions....
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/r...artner=edmunds
It lists all the problems, with their dealer solutions....
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/r...artner=edmunds
09-13-2008, 01:48 AM
#104
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Bonny Issues...
I have had the following MAJOR problems with my Bonny..
Rebuilt Tranny - 72,000 miles. $3000
New Engine - 92,000 miles. $4300 (Got engine with GM 5yr, 60K warranty AT COST)
Minor problems (considering...)
Hood Bubbling.... Fixed it myself, as most of the bubbling was under the hood. Stripped off all the primer and paint and repainted. Hard to tell unless close up - Not perfect, but looks much better.
Right-Front Wheel Hub Assembly - $180 from Auto Zone - Fixed myself
Front and Rear Struts - $280 from Auto Zone - Installed myself
Window Regulator assemblies -
Driver - Front - Broken now and will fix tomorrow
Driver - Rear - Broken twice. A few parts from Home Depot and some ingenuity, fixed myself. Mainly just restrung cable and crimped new ends
Passenger - Front - Still works
Passenger - Rear - Broken 3 times. Same fix from Home Depot.
Intermediate shaft problem - Still clicks, mainly on colder days. But since I live in AZ, it'* not that big of a deal anymore
Power Steering rack - No power steering to the right, only left... Still have to tackle this one...
C/V boot replacement - Driver side inner - $20, installed myself.
Trunk leak - Sealed around trunk spoiler and reinstalled.
A/C just died - Still trying to trouble-shoot
Rebuilt Tranny - 72,000 miles. $3000
New Engine - 92,000 miles. $4300 (Got engine with GM 5yr, 60K warranty AT COST)
Minor problems (considering...)
Hood Bubbling.... Fixed it myself, as most of the bubbling was under the hood. Stripped off all the primer and paint and repainted. Hard to tell unless close up - Not perfect, but looks much better.
Right-Front Wheel Hub Assembly - $180 from Auto Zone - Fixed myself
Front and Rear Struts - $280 from Auto Zone - Installed myself
Window Regulator assemblies -
Driver - Front - Broken now and will fix tomorrow
Driver - Rear - Broken twice. A few parts from Home Depot and some ingenuity, fixed myself. Mainly just restrung cable and crimped new ends
Passenger - Front - Still works
Passenger - Rear - Broken 3 times. Same fix from Home Depot.
Intermediate shaft problem - Still clicks, mainly on colder days. But since I live in AZ, it'* not that big of a deal anymore
Power Steering rack - No power steering to the right, only left... Still have to tackle this one...
C/V boot replacement - Driver side inner - $20, installed myself.
Trunk leak - Sealed around trunk spoiler and reinstalled.
A/C just died - Still trying to trouble-shoot
09-13-2008, 03:21 AM
#105
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After looking some thread, i see that some members were interested in making a thread for the common problem on the 2000-2005 bonneville,
ill start with what i know, the following price are from dealer and are in canadian$$
sorry i dont know how to convert them in US$.
1-INTERMEDIATE SHAFT:
Symptom: Clunking sound while fully turn the steering wheel right and/or left, can also look like someone is sliding a cardboard on a grill.
Solutions:- Some of us just lube it, any good mechanic will do it for you,or dealer (not free)
-Replace the intermediate shaft: More expensive and for now we dont know if it worth changing it, this is the same design.
Cost:
Intermediate shaft: 227$ +taxes
Labor: 1-2 hour @ xx $
2-LOWER INTAKE GASKET
Symptom: Your coolant consumption is high,coolant leak, if you open the oil cap and touch the inside, you can see the oil is different, and in some case valve are knocking...
Solutions: You need a new lower intake gasket as fast as possible.
Cost:
-Intake gasket: 95.20$ + taxes
-3 other gasket for reinstall: 26$ +taxes
-coolant : xx$
-Labor: 3-4h @ xx $ (it cost me 444$ total)
Additionnal cost for gummed lifter , they may be need to clean the lifter because of chemical reaction with the heat , oil and coolant :
Cost:
Gasket: 2X 22.90$ + taxes
Oil: xx$
Labor: 3-3.5h @ xx$
Total: 348$ (thats what i paid)
Roughly a 700-800$ can job at the dealer
3-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID:
Symptoms: Your boost gauge will show you very low boost,but will still move, performance will be also lower, a SES (sevice engine soon light) will may be come "on" code :P0243
Solutions: -Get the car scanned, autozone or dealer. Get it replaced by the dealer.
-Or, get the part and do it yourself, Just pull the old one and install the new one, http://www.mccgp.com/upgrades/boostb...ost_bypass.php .
the boost control solenoid is in front of the boost bypass valve wich is describe in the link
Cost:
Boost control solenoid: +- 50$
Labor: 15 minutes (but dealer will try to extend the time...)
4-WHEEL BEARING , WSS(wheel speed sensor)
Symptoms: I put them together because if one of them fail you need a new hub/bearing. if you ear a groin from one of the wheel, louder depnding if you are turning left or right, all that at mid to high speed, on a jack holding the tire in your hand you can feel the loose in the bearing, THAT is a bad wheel bearing.
If you have a SES light, ABS light and the code is C1221, or C1222, or C1223, or C1224
with one or more of those code set, your ABS system will be disengage.That mean you have a bad wheel speed sensor.
Solutions: You need a new hub assembly/bearing.(the hub assembly hold the bearing and the WSS, you cant just change the WSS or just the bearing)
Cost:
Hub assembly:431.75$ +taxes
Labor: 1-2h @ xx$
5-STEERING WHEEL POSITIONNING SENSOR:
Symptom: You get a message on your DIC : "service stability system"
your electronicaly assisted steering wheel system will disengage, NOT DANGEROUS, you still have power steering...
Solutions: Get the car scanned for the code ,C1286, C1287, C1288(not 100% sure of the code) Get the car to dealer for repair, you can wait if you dont have a lot of money.
Cost:
Steering wheel positionning sensor: 98.15$ + taxes
Labor: 2h @ xx$
6-PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID:
Symptoms:You feel hard shift on light acceleration, it can be intermittent.
Solutions: Get the car scanned, code P1811 , get the car to dealer for repair as soon as you can, damage can be done to transmission in long term use.
Cost:
Pressure control solenoid: 88.70$ + taxes
Oil gasket: 10.70$ +taxes
Labor: 5h @ xx$
Total: I paid 568$ for that repair
Thats pretty all i know for now, theres other common problem like window regulator, but im not qualified enought to explain what to do. Everybody is welcome to continue/improve/update this thread.
Note that you can have those job done elsewhere than the dealer for better prices...
Hope this help any Bonneville owner and members here, now im too tired i have to sleep
make it sticky if you think it worth it.
Cheers
Mike
to be continued...
ill start with what i know, the following price are from dealer and are in canadian$$
sorry i dont know how to convert them in US$.
1-INTERMEDIATE SHAFT:
Symptom: Clunking sound while fully turn the steering wheel right and/or left, can also look like someone is sliding a cardboard on a grill.
Solutions:- Some of us just lube it, any good mechanic will do it for you,or dealer (not free)
-Replace the intermediate shaft: More expensive and for now we dont know if it worth changing it, this is the same design.
Cost:
Intermediate shaft: 227$ +taxes
Labor: 1-2 hour @ xx $
2-LOWER INTAKE GASKET
Symptom: Your coolant consumption is high,coolant leak, if you open the oil cap and touch the inside, you can see the oil is different, and in some case valve are knocking...
Solutions: You need a new lower intake gasket as fast as possible.
Cost:
-Intake gasket: 95.20$ + taxes
-3 other gasket for reinstall: 26$ +taxes
-coolant : xx$
-Labor: 3-4h @ xx $ (it cost me 444$ total)
Additionnal cost for gummed lifter , they may be need to clean the lifter because of chemical reaction with the heat , oil and coolant :
Cost:
Gasket: 2X 22.90$ + taxes
Oil: xx$
Labor: 3-3.5h @ xx$
Total: 348$ (thats what i paid)
Roughly a 700-800$ can job at the dealer
3-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID:
Symptoms: Your boost gauge will show you very low boost,but will still move, performance will be also lower, a SES (sevice engine soon light) will may be come "on" code :P0243
Solutions: -Get the car scanned, autozone or dealer. Get it replaced by the dealer.
-Or, get the part and do it yourself, Just pull the old one and install the new one, http://www.mccgp.com/upgrades/boostb...ost_bypass.php .
the boost control solenoid is in front of the boost bypass valve wich is describe in the link
Cost:
Boost control solenoid: +- 50$
Labor: 15 minutes (but dealer will try to extend the time...)
4-WHEEL BEARING , WSS(wheel speed sensor)
Symptoms: I put them together because if one of them fail you need a new hub/bearing. if you ear a groin from one of the wheel, louder depnding if you are turning left or right, all that at mid to high speed, on a jack holding the tire in your hand you can feel the loose in the bearing, THAT is a bad wheel bearing.
If you have a SES light, ABS light and the code is C1221, or C1222, or C1223, or C1224
with one or more of those code set, your ABS system will be disengage.That mean you have a bad wheel speed sensor.
Solutions: You need a new hub assembly/bearing.(the hub assembly hold the bearing and the WSS, you cant just change the WSS or just the bearing)
Cost:
Hub assembly:431.75$ +taxes
Labor: 1-2h @ xx$
5-STEERING WHEEL POSITIONNING SENSOR:
Symptom: You get a message on your DIC : "service stability system"
your electronicaly assisted steering wheel system will disengage, NOT DANGEROUS, you still have power steering...
Solutions: Get the car scanned for the code ,C1286, C1287, C1288(not 100% sure of the code) Get the car to dealer for repair, you can wait if you dont have a lot of money.
Cost:
Steering wheel positionning sensor: 98.15$ + taxes
Labor: 2h @ xx$
6-PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID:
Symptoms:You feel hard shift on light acceleration, it can be intermittent.
Solutions: Get the car scanned, code P1811 , get the car to dealer for repair as soon as you can, damage can be done to transmission in long term use.
Cost:
Pressure control solenoid: 88.70$ + taxes
Oil gasket: 10.70$ +taxes
Labor: 5h @ xx$
Total: I paid 568$ for that repair
Thats pretty all i know for now, theres other common problem like window regulator, but im not qualified enought to explain what to do. Everybody is welcome to continue/improve/update this thread.
Note that you can have those job done elsewhere than the dealer for better prices...
Hope this help any Bonneville owner and members here, now im too tired i have to sleep
make it sticky if you think it worth it.
Cheers
Mike
to be continued...
Last edited by wug1; 09-13-2008 at 03:23 AM. Reason: wrong price on my ebay price for hub, corrected
09-23-2008, 08:58 PM
#106
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2002 SSEI
Any problems with front end shaking when driving 65? I have had alignment and balanced the wheels twice and it still shakes.
Curious to see if anyone else is having this problem and how to solve?
Paint bubbling on hood on both top and underneath, just paid 350 to have it painted
Driver window leaks a tad in rain
Help welcome.
Any problems with front end shaking when driving 65? I have had alignment and balanced the wheels twice and it still shakes.
Curious to see if anyone else is having this problem and how to solve?
Paint bubbling on hood on both top and underneath, just paid 350 to have it painted
Driver window leaks a tad in rain
Help welcome.
Last edited by EOC; 09-23-2008 at 09:02 PM.
09-23-2008, 09:37 PM
#107
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I also have had my tires balanced numerous times, and an alignment done...Still shakes....But I think my problem lies with the steering rack. I replaced the driver-side tie-rod, and will replace the other one when I do the steering rack.
I will let you know what happens when I do the rack...
I will let you know what happens when I do the rack...
09-24-2008, 11:20 PM
#108
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Thanks for responding
Thank you for responding. I appreciate whatever feedback you can provide once you have the steering rack.
You probably do not need the heated seats feature being out west, but the if you have any info on this, please let me know. The switch ligthts up for a couple of seconds then goes out. They haven't worked in 4 years, but I was so busy never got it to the shop to see if it was covered under warranty. I checked the fuses and they are fine. Have no clue. If it is electrical it probably will be expensive and I can live without the heated seats, but it was sure nice on the cold mornings going to work.
Thank you again,
EOC
You probably do not need the heated seats feature being out west, but the if you have any info on this, please let me know. The switch ligthts up for a couple of seconds then goes out. They haven't worked in 4 years, but I was so busy never got it to the shop to see if it was covered under warranty. I checked the fuses and they are fine. Have no clue. If it is electrical it probably will be expensive and I can live without the heated seats, but it was sure nice on the cold mornings going to work.
Thank you again,
EOC
09-25-2008, 01:49 AM
#109
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Heated Seats
Yes, I have heated seats in my car...I lived in MN for 3 years. My car came with all the options EXCEPT heated seats...The dealer installed them when I picked it up new. They warrantied them as original as well. I do not have the lighted switches, but mine have lo and hi settings. So I can venture a thought...
I noticed a hot spot with mine after a few years. Turns out the heating element was shorting out and caused a slight burning of the seat (thankfully internally only).
You can easily take off the cover from the bottom of the seat without any tools...It is held on the perimeter of the base by plastic "C" channels. Just pry them off with your fingers. You may have to gently pull off the seat controls as well, but they snap right back on. You can then pull up on the cover and detach the velcro holding it in place along the seam to reveal the heating element. It looks like a rear-window defogger with wide strips running parallel to each other. I believe you will find where the leads attach (or any other worn area) the strips have peeled apart, causing a broken circuit or a short circuit. The system probably reads this as an error and shuts off the seat to prevent any damage...Hence why it turns on for only a short time.
Just my $.02...
I noticed a hot spot with mine after a few years. Turns out the heating element was shorting out and caused a slight burning of the seat (thankfully internally only).
You can easily take off the cover from the bottom of the seat without any tools...It is held on the perimeter of the base by plastic "C" channels. Just pry them off with your fingers. You may have to gently pull off the seat controls as well, but they snap right back on. You can then pull up on the cover and detach the velcro holding it in place along the seam to reveal the heating element. It looks like a rear-window defogger with wide strips running parallel to each other. I believe you will find where the leads attach (or any other worn area) the strips have peeled apart, causing a broken circuit or a short circuit. The system probably reads this as an error and shuts off the seat to prevent any damage...Hence why it turns on for only a short time.
Just my $.02...
09-30-2008, 10:58 PM
#110
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rear window regulators - easy fix
Thanks to a thread on this site, i "fixed" (replaced) the rear window regulator in about 2 hours total time, and I'm DEFINATELY not a mechanic.
I got the regulator on-line @ Sandman'* auto parts (ebay) and it works and fits up awesome. Just be careful taking the door panel off. I learned the hard way....the tabs break very easily....but replacing the part was super easy.
Good luck!!
p.*. the regulator was $34 + $15 shipping.....cheaper than I can buy the part myself.
I got the regulator on-line @ Sandman'* auto parts (ebay) and it works and fits up awesome. Just be careful taking the door panel off. I learned the hard way....the tabs break very easily....but replacing the part was super easy.
Good luck!!
p.*. the regulator was $34 + $15 shipping.....cheaper than I can buy the part myself.
ok so i cant give the costs to repair but here are the 00+ common problems...feel free to add the costs if you have had the repaid done
Hood Bubbling due to wrong primer on the hood
04-05 GXP/ 05 SLE Fog lamps
Intermediate Shaft (as mentioned above)
Rear Window regulators
Heated Seat elements stop working
Radio lights/ HVAC light burn out
trunk water leaks
Hood Bubbling due to wrong primer on the hood
04-05 GXP/ 05 SLE Fog lamps
Intermediate Shaft (as mentioned above)
Rear Window regulators
Heated Seat elements stop working
Radio lights/ HVAC light burn out
trunk water leaks
Last edited by devitt; 09-30-2008 at 11:01 PM.