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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-22-2004, 12:48 AM   #61
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Retraction.....if your car is 8-10 years old, and you have the stock factory links, replace them. The rubber will be shot.

My rear 'kit' worked out great. Tackling the ELC adjustment tomorrow.
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Old 02-22-2004, 03:53 AM   #62
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:34 PM   #63
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how bad is it to drive on a broken one of those? i heard a pop from the front left the other day when coming to a stop and when i checked today the endlink is snapped and missing one of the bushings. i plan on getting it in the shop when my parents get back into town next week but should i avoid driving it until then?
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:44 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994se
how bad is it to drive on a broken one of those? i heard a pop from the front left the other day when coming to a stop and when i checked today the endlink is snapped and missing one of the bushings. i plan on getting it in the shop when my parents get back into town next week but should i avoid driving it until then?
You should be fine, although the car may wallow a bit in the turns since its anti-roll capabilities are not what they should be.

Basically, all the loading will now be on the outer wheel suspension (i.e. the MacPherson strut) in a turn, since the front antisway bar is no longer connected to help resist body roll. You'll see more body roll and sway when nosing into tight turns and exit ramps.
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:47 PM   #65
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I have to say, THANK YOU, for all the info in this thread. For once I understand EVERYTHING that I need to get and I don't have any questions (for now atleast).

I think all the part #'*, pictures and info on replacing the endlinks should be compiled into a techinfo article. Actually just put all the relevant posts in the article, it really does cover everything.

Hopefully this will help fix our suspension that has always rattled.
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Old 11-15-2004, 02:28 PM   #66
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Ok, I read all 4 pages, but I think I missed something. Do they make an Energy Suspension kit for the back that has the hardware? I want to buy it all at once, not go to the dealer, then AZ. Also i like the look of the YZD plated hardware that the energy suspension parts have.

Jay
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Old 11-15-2004, 03:45 PM   #67
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I'd suggest re-using your OEM rear bolts, or buying new bolts from the dealer. Hardward store bolts may have threads all the way to the head, but in this case, you can't have that, or the threads will wear out the bushings from the inside. Just make sure. You want the bolt to look like the shiny black bolt in this picture:


With no threads on the top 2/3 of the bolt.
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Old 11-15-2004, 03:55 PM   #68
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Thanks for the fast replies. Im doing this at my parents on black friday, so I will get the hardware from the dealer and to have on hand just in case. And just change it anyway if Im going to have it out of the car. I was just hoping to save a trip to the dealer.

Better yet, I will have the Chevy dealer next to my house order them for me.

Thanks for this post. My dad had his changed 2 months ago under my suggestion after the Reflexes he had installed just didnt give his Ultra the 'planted' feel he wanted. Now the car corners like it is on rails. The reflexes and their stiffness brought out the ineffectiveness of the worn out bushings.
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Old 11-15-2004, 04:11 PM   #69
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Ok, Cool the Chevy dealer is ordering the bolt for me. Now, I need to know this. Has a performance Sway bar frame bushing been found for our car? If so, where and how much? Thanks.

Jay
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:36 AM   #70
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Wow I bet my cars bushings are worn out. Im gonna take a look and tell my pops about this and see what he says.
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