WooHoo! No more ringy-dingy noises from the front end! PICS! - Page 10 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-11-2005, 04:23 PM   #91
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That may be a generic pic for all their kits. No local AZ to you?
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Old 02-11-2005, 04:24 PM   #92
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Bored searching at work. I've got several nearby.
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Old 02-12-2005, 12:34 PM   #93
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It'* time. So I do this with the wheels on? Kinda limits my work space.
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Old 02-12-2005, 01:21 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
It'* time. So I do this with the wheels on? Kinda limits my work space.
You'll have no room issues,I weigh in at 245lb'* and i had more than enough room,assuming your using ramps right?
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:23 PM   #95
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Yep I've got ramps. Does it help to turn the wheels away?
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Old 02-12-2005, 03:00 PM   #96
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Nope. Doesn't matter. Just do it on ramps and crawl under. Do the rears with the wheels off from the outside.
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Old 02-12-2005, 07:28 PM   #97
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Well I did the fronts. Driver side was easy because I got a quarter turn on and the old bolt twisted off. Tapped it out. The passenger side was more difficult. It had been replaced at some time, the bolt was smaller and a lot rustier. Had to use the recipricating saw to get it off. When it was lying on the ground, the portions of the bolts that were between bushings looked like two more days of driving would have snapped them. AND THE SPACER IN THE MIDDLE WAS THREADED AND THE BOLT WAS THREADED ALL THE WAY!! Who did that botch job, I don't know. The rears will be later when my new bolts arrive and I find my lug nut socket.
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Old 02-12-2005, 07:51 PM   #98
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My fronts came off easy,studs where rust free and clean,Maybe there where replaced before by previous owner.On my rear'* I had to pull out my mini butane torch for drivers side and heat up the nut a little ,then she came off with ease .
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Old 02-12-2005, 08:56 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Well I did the fronts. Driver side was easy because I got a quarter turn on and the old bolt twisted off. Tapped it out. The passenger side was more difficult. It had been replaced at some time, the bolt was smaller and a lot rustier. Had to use the recipricating saw to get it off. When it was lying on the ground, the portions of the bolts that were between bushings looked like two more days of driving would have snapped them. AND THE SPACER IN THE MIDDLE WAS THREADED AND THE BOLT WAS THREADED ALL THE WAY!! Who did that botch job, I don't know. The rears will be later when my new bolts arrive and I find my lug nut socket.
That fully-threaded bolt caused a sloppy endlink from day one, and wore out the bushings from the inside. Good work, bud.
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:48 PM   #100
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Hmm, the duralast sway bar end links came today. The rubber bushings that came with them say RAMCOA, just like the ones from my driver side. Maybe they were a replacement. I'll use the washers a bushings from the Energy kit regardless. The bolt and nut that came with, I'm still trying to decide if they are a rust resistant metal or not. They're not black, they are very shiny, a little blue tint to them, especially in the threads. Sound like a rust proof coating of some kind? I'm pretty sure they are not stainless steel. The bolt shoulder is not long enough to have the third bushing completely off the threads. About 75% of the bushing will be exposed to threads. That pic I had from Napa is very representative of the kit.

I'd get stock bolts if I were ever near a dealership when the parts department is open.
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