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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-17-2004, 12:30 PM   #31
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I'm really seriously considering doing the rear on mine now. What an improvement!
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:43 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acg_ssei
Yeesh. That'* a ridiculous "repair" on somebody'* part. You're supposed to replace them in pairs to balance the load; I can't imagine that that mismatched set had anywhere near the same compliance on both sides.
That'* what I was thinking. I knew something was done wrong when I noticed this. I can't really tell how the 2 different links are giving me problems, but I must say, I've taken some tight corners at a good amount of speed and I thought my wheel(*) could have fallen off. Really shaky :( I'll be fixing these ASAP.
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:02 PM   #33
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Pete, those endlinks can feel like a hub or a strut in some situations. Definitely do this before spending any other suspension $.
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:01 PM   #34
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Hmmmmm.....
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:18 PM   #35
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A big thanks to a couple of our gearheads for posting this. I was actually considering using spring rubbers to firm up my cornering. I think after I replace the rear endlinks, the need will be taken care of.
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Old 02-17-2004, 04:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94sse
I can't really tell how the 2 different links are giving me problems, but I must say, I've taken some tight corners at a good amount of speed and I thought my wheel(*) could have fallen off. Really shaky :( I'll be fixing these ASAP.
I would think the problem would be more noticeable in straight-ahead bouncing over bumps, because a stiffer link-bolt connection on one side than on the other would make one wheel'* suspension deflect a little easier than the other, under circumstances where they're supposed to both respond with the same resistance and at the same rate. e.g. When the nose is bouncing up and down evenly (as if you were bouncing the car at its centerpoint, not one corner), the whole antisway bar should be free to pivot up and down, dampened only by its subframe bushings.

It'* in corners where the bar delivers its resistance, preventing the outside wheel'* suspension from compressing by resisting the twisting force on the bar, and using the inside wheel'* suspension as backup. The stiffness of the link bolts bolsters the anti-sway action: if the link bolt bushings give _more_, then less rotational force is transferred to the anti-sway bar, and there'* less it can do as a result, since the suspension'* already squishing down in response to the curve. On the other hand, if the link bolt bushings are really firm, more force goes to the bar, less deflection is allowed as a result, and your cornering is a lot more flat.

As for taking turns, I think you might see a little more body roll on one side than the other, though not too much difference if everything is actually bolted together like it'* supposed to. If you're feeling a lot of shaking from the wheels, I think I'd check to see whether they're balanced and (especially) whether one or both struts have sprung a leak.
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:37 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Pete, those endlinks can feel like a hub or a strut in some situations. Definitely do this before spending any other suspension $.
Oh I will After reading this thread, I realize it would be better to do these endlinks first. I'm convinced that they will make a big difference in the ride. So I will do these first and see what other symptoms I have later (hopefully there won't be many).

Andy...I do get quite a bit of shakiness on bumps and dips driving straight. After reading this thread I bet these endlinks could be the major fault of this. I bet my struts need replacing too (and possibly wheel bearings and/or upper bearing plate.) I can't wait until this gets fixed.

BTW, can I put my car on jack stands and replace these? Or are ramps a better idea?

Thanks all you guys for your help again!
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:44 PM   #38
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It'll be alot easier to do this on ramps. If the wheels hang free, you'll be prying and pulling to get things together.
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Old 02-17-2004, 11:20 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
It'll be alot easier to do this on ramps. If the wheels hang free, you'll be prying and pulling to get things together.
That'* what I thought after I posted. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2004, 11:12 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94sse
Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
It'll be alot easier to do this on ramps. If the wheels hang free, you'll be prying and pulling to get things together.
That'* what I thought after I posted. Thanks.
Yes, what he said. If you let the front wheels hang down, that simply pulls the lower suspension further away from the end of the anti-sway bar.

The scene is the executive boardroom at Moog Industries:

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD: Gentlemen, I can't understand this. In the past week, sales of Bonneville sway bar links have gone through the roof! We must increase production right away...
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