Will Crank sensor Always post a trouble code? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-10-2008, 02:55 PM   #11
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Big Poppa,

If I were you, I would spend the extra money and buy the GM part, if it is not significantly higher - ONLY because I have had trouble in the past with electrical parts and sensors from after-market companies. I didn't change it myself. You may end up having to remove other parts to get to it - not real sure. Hey, post up a reply when you finish. I would like to know how involved it is to change and the price of the sensor.

I sincerely hope this will solve your problem. I don't want you wasting time and money, AND me feeling responsible. (-;

Good Luck, JB
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:18 PM   #12
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JBTECH,

My Man, we back in business!!!! She fired right-up and purred like a nasty mean big cat!! It was not that bad to replace but you must have a big breaker bar or huge arms to crack that center bolt on the harmonic balancer. Just jam up the fly wheel with a screwdriver and throw down some tourque and and wham!! after that I borrowed a crankshaft sensor installation tool from my buddy at autozone and remove and replace- basically I just followed the hayes automotive manuel page for page. I say about 4 hrs from start to finish with a few smoke breaks in between. I went with a duralast part for 29.99..I know it'* not the best but times are really hard now here in texas and I am sorry to say I just don't have much funds available! But it turned out well and your post was most timely and very informative! Thank you JBTECH keep in touch and stay on the road my brother!!

Kindest Regards,
Big Poppa
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:44 PM   #13
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BIG POPPA,

Hey, you mentioned in your last post something about pulling the harmonic balancer to replace the CKP. I have an oil leak in that area. I started a thread "Seal, Crankshaft Front Cover Oil - 92 SSEi",
so I am wondering, how did you get the harmonic balancer off between the wheel well frame and front of the engine. Did you need a special puller or just a basic Autozone loaner. If you or anyone else has an answer, please post soon, in this thread or the other, because I have to deal with this problem tomorrow.

Thanks, and I'm glad you have solved your problem.

JB

Last edited by jbtech; 10-10-2008 at 09:48 PM. Reason: additional question
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Old 10-10-2008, 10:09 PM   #14
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Code 41 cam sensor circuit fault, igntion control circuit fault.. Hope this helps!!
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Old 10-10-2008, 10:42 PM   #15
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JB,

Autozone set me up with the tool and puller. I had the breaker bar and socket! Man, you will really need a piece of pipe or a breaker to crack that center bolt JB, I was pullin on it so hard I saw purple spots there for a second! Also get your hands on a Hayes/chilton automotive book asap! Dropping the harmonic balancer is not that bad if you have the right gear...they tell me those suckers really come off easy with impact guns!!! Ouch! Is this oil leak severe or just seeping? Can some oil stop leak save the day? Go with a thicker weight oil? Messing with a oil leak in that area can't be very nice! Dosen't Lucas make a kick a$$ oil stop leak product?Or is it Risolin? Just blue skying here...when do you plan to start work on your Bonnie?
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Old 10-10-2008, 10:46 PM   #16
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Bingo! You have saved the day on that code 41 my friend! Thank you GTPSUPRCHRGD03. Your timing is excellent! Kindest Regrds,
Big Poppa
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Old 10-10-2008, 11:45 PM   #17
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JB,
Okay JB here is some info on how to remove/replace a crank seal while the motor is still in the car man..vaja con dios mi amigo and buena suerte. Good Luck as they say in san Antonio!
1. loosen the lug nuts on the right side front wheel.
2.raise and support vehicle on jackstands
3.remove the front wheel
4. remove inner front splash shield
5. remove drive belt
6.remove the lower bellhousing cover plate and jam a large screwdriver in the gear ring teeth to keep the crankshaft from turning while a assistant removes the crankshaft balancer bolt with the big breaker bar I told you about.
7. Balancer should pull off by hand. leave the woodruff key in place in the end of the crankshaft
8. installation is the reverse of removal. be sure to align the keyway and avoid bending or messing w those metal tabs. be sure to apply moly grease to the seal contact surfaces on the backside of damper it prevents the seal from slipping.
9.now you should see the crankshaft seal/pry that sucker out with a seal removal tool or a screwdriver be very cool and careful not to nick or damage the crankshaft in the process.
10. apply thin coat of rtv sealant to the outer edge of the new seal. lubricate the seal lip w clean engine oil
11. place the seal squarely in position in the bore and press it into place w a seal driver tool make sure the seal enters cleanly and seats completely
12. you can use a similar sized socket and a pipe and hammer and drive that sucker in too.
13.take a 10 min smoke break!
14. start putting it all back together in reverse order and start the car and check for leaks.
This is info straight out of the Haynes automotive manuel from Mr. John H Haynes himself- word for word. i hope this helps and gives you an idea of what you may be geting into...not an impossible task to do but hard as h*LL! I have a feelin JB that you can do this!! I hear folks are tough as nails from your part of the country...what you say my friend you in or out? Best of wishes,
Big Poppa
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