TURNING SIGNALS - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-21-2005, 02:36 AM   #11
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happened on my bonne and the stearing wheel and all the covers had to be removed down the column to that point to get the old one out and the new one in. after that. i had no problems.
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Old 05-22-2005, 03:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TV_PRO_USMC
is it pretty easy to fish the new wires though the steering column?
It'* not that bad, just be careful not to pull any other wires.

Thanks,
Sellncars
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Old 06-22-2005, 08:17 PM   #13
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I completed the job but my brights dont work any more haha, i think it is just a plastic piece that came out of the steering column, but i havent figured out how the thing goes back in. Anyways it took me like 3hours to do the job. If anyone knows how to put this plastic piece back in for my brights please tell me. Thanks
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Old 06-22-2005, 08:35 PM   #14
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I'm sorry, but your wrong. The multifunction switch / turn signal switch plugs into the Pivot switch. I had that Pivot switch break on mine. The switch at the dealer was like $35.00 and it cost me $85.00 in labor. If the turn signal switch itself is whats broken email me *email* i have a few that are in good working order.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
That handle just clips in. There is no cast iron peice in there, you're turning the switch itself. The stalk is like $30. You pop off the cover next to the stalk, unplug the wires and pull the stalk out, clip the new one in.
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TV_PRO_USMC
I completed the job but my brights dont work any more haha, i think it is just a plastic piece that came out of the steering column, but i havent figured out how the thing goes back in. Anyways it took me like 3hours to do the job. If anyone knows how to put this plastic piece back in for my brights please tell me. Thanks
As I remember you have to get the metal rod sitting on the high/low switch farther down in the column. Then you can get the plstic peice balanced on top of the metal rod and under the arm of the upper switch.
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:02 PM   #16
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Yea I saw that metal rod and tried to somehow get that plastic piece on it correctly but it wasnt working for me.
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Old 07-01-2005, 07:19 PM   #17
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Hey, that'* the bitchiest part of the whole thing.

3F5A-10

Okay, With the column ripped down to where you've got the ignition cylinder housing off,

Turn the metal rod to where the part that sticks out is shaped like an L, with the other end sitting on the Dimmer Switch.

Put the pivot pin (that plastic peice) into the pivot switch

then put those into the ignition cover

then the dimmer switch rod actuator (some sort of flat plastic peice that you lube with lithium) into the ignition cover

then the ignition cover back onto the column.

Gee, it sure seems simple when they say it like that doesn't it?
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Old 07-15-2005, 04:08 PM   #18
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Thanks for that info i will try it when i get some time =)
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Old 01-26-2006, 04:54 PM   #19
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This happened to me, but the cast peice that holds the metal rod on the bottom broke off i"m not sure how to fix it any tips?
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Old 01-26-2006, 04:59 PM   #20
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Hi...Welcome back.. In the future, please start a fresh thread and link to the old one.

Sounds like the multi function switch broke on you. It'* not the lever right? This requires a partial column disassembly with specialized tools that can be rented.
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