What are the rest of the compression figures?

Also, if the compressor seizes, it can drag the engine down, but you will have the computer fighting to keep the engine running. It also will make very bad noises, and could stall the engine, but it doesn't really fit. If you unplug the compressor, and the starter doesn't labor in turning the engine over any more so than usual, I would look elsewhere for now.

We should look at it this way, the computer sees that the engine is not burning all of the fuel going in to it. Could be that there is not enough air (IAC, air filter, other obstruction, or mechanical issue causing no compression), too much fuel (stuck/leaking injector, FPR leak, or bad MAF reading causing the computer to overfuel), or no/poor ignition (spark plugs, wires, ICM, CPS, etc).

Some sensors (Like the MAF, O2, etc) can be unplugged, and the computer will use data from other sensors to 'best guess' it. Others may just simply cause a no start all together when disconnected (TPS)

My gut says ICM. CPS usually just kills the car dead, because it controls fueling and spark normally.

Nuts.

In 8 years on the Boards, this is really rare. It'* the #3 cylinder. Something must be bent/deformed. My bet is that it'* the valve on the outtake.

This is the killer. I can take it down to the heads, and this would be a great learning experience, but I'm in the middle of a major home renovation. I don't have 5 more minutes to put into the car and it can't be just tanked in the driveway for 3 months. And I don't have the cash right now to put a $grand into having a garage do it.

This is not a "poor me" whine. It'* just a Bonneville that should not die. Every thing I have done on this car was planned so it could coast to 200k miles. The nasty stuff,..fresh brakelines, fuel pump, dash pull and overhaul the climate control,doors, lines etc.

Kept up on the electrical and replaced the stuff ya have to do like the LIM aluminum gasket. It wasn't running perfect for a few months, traced it to the cat and rear 02 sensor, replaced them and the past 6 months it'* been running like new. Fuel trims were tight on 0.0, IGN ADV was on value. All the airs were good. KR was unusually low for any L67 at WOT. It only has 120K+/-The car is CLEAN.

The wife wants to donate it to the Disabled Vets and that'* a worthy idea. But not yet. If this hadn't happened at the worst possible moment, I'd take the shot at bringing her back.

The thought of this car going to some non-Bonnevillist makes my chest hurt.

Anybody in/near the Phila area is welcome to come and do any diagnostics they wish, so they know the risk. I will sell it for drayage, if I know she is going to someone who embraces true Bonnevillism.

%$#*. I am P*****.

why do you think its a mechanical problem again? you can take one of the spark plugs completely out and it will still start and run

Have you been able to get a compression test done to see how all the cylinders compare to #3?
If you can do a warm compression test on them all, then squirt a 2-3 drops of clean oil in each one and re-test.

Below is what is said for the L36, I think this should hold pretty true to your motor as well, of course IMO 100 psi is way too low for the compression to be considered a good number.

The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70% of the highest and no cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi). Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open.

it doesnt matter if he has 0 compression in that cylinder, if everything is working properly it will start and run on 5

Wouldn't he get misfires though?

yes, that is further evidence behind my reasoning that it has nothing to do with his current problem