Stumbling DTC P0530 - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-24-2014, 07:42 AM   #11
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there is a few things that can bleed the pressure down so its more of a check where if its good and stays you know everything is good. if not you have to investigate further
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:51 AM   #12
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I'd not replace the FPR if the line did not smell like gas at all, and if no gas came out of the line after a minute or two, if you see what the guy seen in the video then replace it, if not I'd not waste the money on getting one.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:11 PM   #13
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This is way opposite of good.

I was stuck and don't have the necessary test equipment in my driveway toolbox. So off it went to the garage.

The short version..

I have 163 psi in my 3rd cylinder, but according to the wrench it flunked the leak down test.

I finally got to him, and asked him where it was leaking. He said he didn't know because he didn't listen for it. He would have to take the engine down to the heads. ?

Now, like often with these cars, I have to tap my memory to about 40 years ago and the last time I did a leak down test.

If it'* rings/combustion, I'm hosed.

But correct me if I'm wrong, it could be an intake valve which you can hear at the throttle body, an outlet which you can hear at the exhaust. As it gets scarier, you can see bubbles in the antifreeze (no way), or crank oil.

Am I close here?

I also asked him how he was sure the cylinder was at dead top. That was probably stupid and pezzed him off. But he ignored the question anyway.

The car is still there to be picked up tomorrow. In this new century is it still possible to hear the leak from whatever gauge is being used?

Thanks for any opinions.
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:33 AM   #14
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normally if its rings you would have low compression and if you put some oil in the cylinder the reading would go up
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:16 AM   #15
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I think they are going about it the wrong way, and we need to step back to basics. They are chasing what they believe is a mechanical gremlin, and they believe the next step is to tear the engine down. A mechanical failure that would cause the car to stop running like this should be immediately apparent in a compression test, and the engine would make noises too.

I believe the issue is electrical (ignition based is my bet) and i think a bunch of money is about to fly that doesn't need to fly.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:34 AM   #16
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i would agree its not like any mechanical failure i have come across
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:10 PM   #17
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I believe the issue is electrical (ignition based is my bet) and i think a bunch of money is about to fly that doesn't need to fly.
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i would agree its not like any mechanical failure i have come across
Thanks for the comments. I didn't want to say outloud that I felt the garage was going in the way wrong direction. I'm nowhere near a good enough wrench to be saying that.

It doesn't make sense it would be internal mechanical. Ya gotta get a DTC in that case. I'm going to haul the car back from the garage now. I don't know where I'm going to start but....

It had air, it had fuel ... no question and i have enough backup parts for ignition to open a boneyard.

Backing up.... What happens if your ac compressor ceases? Is that enough drag to take down everything on the accessory side. Remember, the last thing which happens is the fuel trims head quickly south ie the air supply has collapsed. ??
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:28 PM   #18
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basically running till hot is most times cranksensor, maf, or icm. if it dies and you unplug the maf and it cranks a little and starts its likely that. also if you have live data maf readings should be 5 or 6 gm/* at idle and go up pretty good revving it. if it doesnt have spark when it dies it could be icm or ckp, but the icm is easy to replace and you said you have one.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:42 PM   #19
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basically running till hot is most times cranksensor, maf, or icm. if it dies and you unplug the maf and it cranks a little and starts its likely that. also if you have live data maf readings should be 5 or 6 gm/* at idle and go up pretty good revving it. if it doesnt have spark when it dies it could be icm or ckp, but the icm is easy to replace and you said you have one.
AAA is wonderful. The past few weeks, the car has had more miles on a flatbed , than it'* had with its wheels on the road. In fact, more miles (which is 0) than it has had in the 8 years I have owned it.

I have a MAF, ICM, and coils. They are yard parts but I benchtested them, then ran them on the car to make sure they were good backup.

Here'* where we are. The car kicks over for about 15 seconds, stumbles and cuts. Which means I'll be able to get 30? freeze frames.

I'll tell ya right now, I don't like the way the oil pressure gauge is jitterbugging in the short time it runs smooth.

I'll put the MAF and ignition stuff in tonight, but now that I checked the FSM, that 163 psi on the #3 cylinder is way out of range. And way out of range of the compression across the cylinders I have in my notes from a couple of years ago.

As I said, I'll put in the MAF and ignition parts and collect some data tonight.

Still, nobody has seen a DTC, since I had the P0530, and re-connected the sensor, when it all started. Bleep.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:04 PM   #20
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was thinking NA numbers, im not real sure on SC engines. 160'* wouldnt be that far out line for a high mile na 3800. and im not sure what the idle maf reading would be either.
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