1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-22-2007, 10:20 AM
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Although.. an oil covered piece of metal doesn't rust.

Looks llike you have concluded what I was eluding to.. white smoke is probably coolant being burned. You want to check your overflow tank.
Old 06-22-2007, 10:31 AM
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Well you guys have been a big help, I was at the point of almost going to invest in a new motor, but I will do this first and hope for the best. Thanks again, and if you have any more ideas of what I can do to make sure that im in no danger of have to replace my motor, please let me know. Thanks again............................Antonio
Old 06-22-2007, 11:04 AM
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Please get it done ASAP. I stayed in denial too long, and it ended up costing me an engine and tranny six months later....

Granted, my case is pretty extreme (just lucky, I guess) but it'* an example of why you need to try and get 'er done as soon as possible.
Old 06-22-2007, 11:06 AM
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Start right now or an hour ago by draining your oil before your crank and rod bearings start to rust.
Old 06-22-2007, 08:03 PM
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Be sure you have the torque wrenches before you start. I had to pick up an inch-pound torque wrench when I did mine. Other than that you can just about do the whole thing with a 10 & 13mm socket wrench.
Old 06-22-2007, 11:08 PM
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To chime in here with everyone else, just in case we're not quite getting through to you: You need to drain your oil like RIGHT NOW. Literally, the longer you wait on this, the greater your odds of eating away the lower engine bearings. That will literally cost you a new engine, whereas the upper manifold and the lower gasket are things that you can actually replace. But don't wait a day or a week, and don't keep driving your car. Go drain your oil RIGHT NOW and don't drive anywhere until you fix this. This is an engine killer.

This is a REALLY WELL KNOWN issue, and if you get to it in time, you can save your engine. But if you wait, your car will keep running, and you'll be driving down the road like everything is fine. Your car will start to overheat if you're lucky, to warn you that your coolant is gone. If you're not lucky, your engine will die -hydrolocked- with coolant-filled cylinders.

And finally, when you do get this fixed and go to re-fill with coolant. Use green. Don't use Dex-Cool. Just use green from now on.
Old 06-23-2007, 01:26 AM
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I got the tools thats no problem. Well I ordered the upper intake and it should be here in a few days, and im going to buy the lower gasket tomorrow. Is there anything else I should change while im at it besides the oil?
Old 06-23-2007, 09:44 AM
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Please tell me the oil is out of it now?

Don't put DEXcool back in. Use prestone long-life dex-compatible coolant.

And you'll need to change your oil again after a day or two of driving, so use cheap stuff when you fill it the first time.

Did you get the coolant bypass elbow?

Do you have a good torque wrench?
Old 06-23-2007, 04:30 PM
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I understand that this is a big issue, but I cant afford to have the car down right now I still have to get to work and this is my only means of transportation, but it will be down soon enough. No I did not get the elbow. Yes I do have a good torque wrench. As soon as the intake comes in the car is going down.
Old 06-23-2007, 04:32 PM
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I hope you know you're killing the car every time you turn the key. Can you afford to be without a working motor next month?


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