1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

oil pressure

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Old 09-22-2003, 08:26 PM
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You all realize that you must re-torque the Trans pans after about three days after the install right????? Otherwise, it will leak all over again! Plus the use of PST with teflon isn't bad either on the bolt threads too.
Old 09-22-2003, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DeathRat
You all realize that you must re-torque the Trans pans after about three days after the install right????? Otherwise, it will leak all over again! Plus the use of PST with teflon isn't bad either on the bolt threads too.
yup!
Old 09-22-2003, 08:31 PM
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No kidding? The dealer never told me to come back. :(
Old 09-22-2003, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by fuddyduddy121
No kidding? The dealer never told me to come back. :(
They won't either. It'* a lesser known fact & most dealers will assume that "their" work doesn't require you to make a return visit. The reason for this is that ALL GM tech'* must torque all bolts to GM specs & state it too in the wrork order'* detailed work summery.

Originally Posted by jr's3800
I was about to say... I have never had to go back and retorque... I have had no leaks with the rubber gaskets... With the cork I had to retighten after a couple of months, or the next oil change... No trans fluid leaks here... and its been about 6 months now..
I only stated the re-torquing based upon that most "back-yarders" don't use an actual torque wrench to torque the bolts on. For those very few that do, then what I've stated above would not be needed. This is of course only applies to properly torqued bolts though, not the "hand-tight" or over tighten bolts most do.
Old 09-23-2003, 02:00 PM
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Re-torque? Same here. Never heard of it. The GM dealership I took it to is the one I have been doing business with for the past ten years and I have had good relationships with the service dept. If he would have said come back in a few days for a re-torque I would have done so. Pulled out of garage this morning and the floor underneath was bone dry where the trans sits.
Old 09-23-2003, 02:15 PM
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I'ts just something to check if you feel like crawling under the car i'ts not nessesary to do if you torqed it properly in the first place.
Old 09-23-2003, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by daman
I'ts just something to check if you feel like crawling under the car i'ts not nessesary to do if you torqed it properly in the first place.
Just remember the "Key Words" here ARE: PROPERLY TORQUED IN THE FIRST PLACE!
Old 09-24-2003, 10:41 PM
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my oil pressure gage works every now and again, the needle is usally at the max point on the gage, i think it might be the sending unit but im not to sure the gage goes to the maximum position even with the car not running, but with the key turned in the On position. i unpluged the gage connection on the sending unit "i think" its like right beside the oil filter so i figured it was the oil gage connection, it still pins its self as high as it can go.
Old 09-24-2003, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SSEimatt93
my oil pressure gage works every now and again, the needle is usally at the max point on the gage, i think it might be the sending unit but im not to sure the gage goes to the maximum position even with the car not running, but with the key turned in the On position. i unpluged the gage connection on the sending unit "i think" its like right beside the oil filter so i figured it was the oil gage connection, it still pins its self as high as it can go.
Might be either the gauge or the cluster itself then...... :?
Old 09-25-2003, 11:59 AM
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Disconnecting the sensor will always peg the gauge.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?p=78527
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