motor surge at idle then stalls..help - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-05-2008, 08:23 PM   #1
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Default motor surge at idle then stalls..help

My 1999 surges at idle then stalls. If i keep the rpm'* up over 1000 feathering it istays running. As long as I'm into the gas cruising it runs great but when I let off the gas it wants to cut off....can anyone help me thats had the same problem? Don't want to start replacing parts at will...help...thanks.
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:48 PM   #2
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anyone help?
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Old 02-06-2008, 06:04 PM   #3
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have you had it scanned for codes?
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Old 02-06-2008, 06:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonnevillan
have you had it scanned for codes?
nope check engine light not lit ??
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Old 02-06-2008, 10:38 PM   #5
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What model is this, how many miles, when was the last tune-up done, how does the car run otherwise compared to before it started doing this?
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:04 PM   #6
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Whens the last time the fuel filter was changed?
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:51 PM   #7
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FYI, my 93 SSE is doing the same thing but did not light the "Check Engine." But shows a code (they had been cleared out the night before). So definitely need to have Autozone or somebody scan it if you can get it someplace to do that.
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:29 PM   #8
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1999 SE 3.8 motor - 89,500mile

tune up done eight months ago - runs great as long as your cruising - fuel filter hummm never i've had the car three years.

1. going to start there-buy filter
2. scan motor for codes
3. ?

Thx...
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:35 PM   #9
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Not saying your fuel filter doesn't need changed, but.....

Before doing that, I would carefully check for vacuum leaks and consider cleaning the throttle body including the IAC passages and pintle, and the MAF wires unless that has been done recently. That will cost you very little, and unless you break the fragile MAF wires, can only help.

Then, you might consider checking the fuel pump pressure. A cheapo pressure tester can be had from Harbor Freight for less than $15 iirc. A plugged filter will show up on a pressure test. Make sure the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking gasoline into the vacuum line by pulling off the hose and checking for the presence of gasoline immediately after shutting off the engine.

Water in your gasoline will cause similar symptoms. It is rare, but it does happen. You need to take a sample of the gasoline that is reaching the fuel rail to investigate this possibility. Put the gasoline in a clear glass container and let it sit for a while, then look at the bottom for beads of water. If you buy your gas from the same station, same pump, and are using it in other vehicles with no problems, you can discount this possibility. You could add a couple of bottles of dry-gas or Heet (methyl alcohol) to the gas tank to help absorb any water that might be present. Although, if you have a lot of water in the tank, more aggressive measures might be needed.
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