lost all oil pressure while driving....photos of engine - Page 6 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-09-2007, 08:00 PM   #51
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I haven't read the thread, but your TB gasket was leaking. Were you running Dexcool?
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:04 PM   #52
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To tell you the truth, I don't know what we had in it....

Qucik recap because it is a long thread:::::

Driving on highway, engine started knocking, (had a continous oil leak for a while now, before I read threads), accelerated around a car, dropped all oil pressure, would not start.........got it home, everything seemed fine, started it up and found no water in oil...
replaced oil, started it and let it run for 5 minutes, shut it off and found water in oil....no we are up to speed on the thread.
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:09 PM   #53
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Get some pics of both sides of the lower intake gaskets.
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Old 04-11-2007, 12:46 AM   #54
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Holy Bat Balls
The look of that engine puts a whole new perspective on leaking Dex.

Totally gross The ultimate in neglect. :(
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Old 04-11-2007, 12:56 AM   #55
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Your #1 LIM runner shows the story. You were sucking coolant.

Engine is complete toast judging by the lifter valley crusty residue alone.

Replace the entire engine.
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Old 04-11-2007, 03:06 AM   #56
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I will agree that it has been neglected, along with my social life and physical daily activity since school as been getting stressful right before graduation, but that is no excuse....

What I would like to do is make it to where this engine/car can drive, even if it does knock or suck coolant. I plan on getting a new car in the next 6 months after I move, and would like to use this as a little trade in for a down payment....even if I could get it running and driving just long enough for the auto guys to drive it a few miles I would be happy.

This is the first engine I have ever opened up, so I don't have much experience to compare it to....but things looks bad I guess?
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:47 AM   #57
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Oh Robin...let go of the Bat juice

This failure should have nothing to do with Dex. (i haven't read the thread and found where the poster said he switched from factory green to dex)

Dex wasn't used until later years by GM.
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:39 AM   #58
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pinionlc, write that engine off. That'* the worst I've ever seen. And when you said 'knock' what you really meant to say was 'new motor'.

It'* rare, but it happens. That engine is far beyond any hope of repair.
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Old 04-11-2007, 10:09 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinionlc

What I would like to do is make it to where this engine/car can drive, even if it does knock or suck coolant. I plan on getting a new car in the next 6 months after I move, and would like to use this as a little trade in for a down payment....even if I could get it running and driving just long enough for the auto guys to drive it a few miles I would be happy.
Well, it could turn out to be a waste of your money. But you will gain experience and that may be worth the cost of the engine gaskets. Your throttle body needs to be cleaned. You could just clean up the TB and all of the gasket sealing surfaces; install new gaskets and see where it goes.

I would be most concerned about the knock you heard coming back to bite you. If the knock was a bearing (probable), understand that it will not go away, but only get worse, and eventually stop you cold. And that is most likely to happen a lot sooner than six months. Also, an engine with a bearing knock is worse than worthless when you try to give the car away. The only person who would be willing to buy the car (and not for much) will be someone who has access to a cheap engine or who needs the car for parts.

Your only hope is that the knock you heard was caused by something else and that it will go away when you have re-sealed the engine. But, your original description sounds pretty much like a bad bearing. Just understand that you will just be gambling the cost of the gaskets and your time against the probability that your engine will still be knocking when you are done.

The most economical way to ensure a long-term fix is to replace the engine with a good junkyard engine. There are some u-pull-it yards where an engine can be had for under $200.

Now a word about trading in cars and using them for down payments. This is a costly choice. You will save more money by buying your newer car without a trade, and selling your old car yourself. Dealers make a living by profiting on both sides of the sale while making you think you got a good deal. They are good at it. It'* what they do.
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Old 04-11-2007, 11:28 PM   #60
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Yes, I also support Bill'* recommendations. As much as you don't like to hear it, we all think that you would be throwing your money and time away, unless you are willing to go all the way with pulling the engine and completely disassembling it.
Very likely you have spun a bearing. It'* only your time to pull it all apart and see if it'* worth rebuilding before you spend money on any parts.
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