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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-15-2009, 07:03 PM   #11
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Not sure about the older cars, but the ones I have worked on all have them near the thermostat. It should be in the lower intake manifold.
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Old 03-22-2009, 01:05 PM   #12
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Talking I've got codes! hehe need help** FIXED!!

Well sorry guys no fire to attend but, swing buy for that beer! There are two temp sensors on the motor. There is one on the intake that is in plain sight. It is on the fire wall side of the motor to the right of throttle body.I've got codes! hehe need help-100_2686.jpgI've got codes! hehe need help-100_2685.jpg This sensor should have a recepical like this. This sensor should be attached with one dark green with white/yellow trace wire. It makes the gauge in the instument cluster read and will not throw a code if un-hooked. The other sensor is the sensor that will give you code 14/15. It SHOULD be wired with one black and one yellow.This sensor is well hidden just south of the TBI've got codes! hehe need help-100_2689.jpg The receplical for this sensor looks like this . This was a total bone head move on my part.

As for the running problems... A friend gave me some used parts: TB, MAF,IAC, and TPS. Swapped the IAC with no progress. Swapped the MAF this dropped the idle from 1300 to 600.So that helped some. Then swapped the TPS and lo-and-behold Night/Day. No more stumbles,dies,or hard starts. As posted before I checked the tps with ohm meter. Very steady curve with no drops.But It made the difference so all is gladness and light.
The moral of the story is ... DON'T get soo ticked that when you find oil in the coolant that you go to pull the heads only to find that the one on the fire wall side is such a PITA that you pull the motor in a fit of rage. Then decide that pulling the motor is grounds for rebuild and don't pay enough attention to see that you did indeed did un-hook something from that dang sensor.
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