Constant -7psi boost and some clicking.... - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 02-18-2003, 02:46 AM   #1
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Default Constant -7psi boost and some clicking....

I was hoping I'd never have to post here but I've been worrying about a few problems I've noticed in my beast. First is my boost gauge stays at about -7 to -8psi. Worry about this? No problems otherwise with the supercharger. The second prob is a little more worrysome. It seems to come and go or maybe my music is usually too loud to hear it but when I'm driving on smooth ground and my steering wheel is even the slightest to the right I hear (and feel) a clicking of sorts comming from the right side. If I turn the wheel to the left a little it goes away. I can do all this without really altering the direction of the car, just the slightest movement is necessary to get it to come and go. I can feel it in the gas pedal too, it really feels like I'm driving on a poorly built road with cracks in it. Its not loud at all, it would sound like less than a quarter of the noise associated with a flat tire on that side, same kinda thumping though. Only thing I've heard from people who know little is cv joint this and cv joint that. Looking at that side on a lift everything looks great. Any ideas? I'd like to have an idea before I take it to the shop and pay $2000 for a new everything.

Jason
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Old 02-18-2003, 12:32 PM   #2
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Default Re: Constant -7psi boost and some clicking....

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJay
First is my boost gauge stays at about -7 to -8psi. Worry about this?
If you're coasting along and the engine is not under load or acceleration, the gauge should be pegged counterclockwise (i.e. where most gauges are at 0). If it isn't, you might have some partial blockage in the catalytic convertor or elsewhere in the exhaust that'* leading to excess backpressure and reduced intake manifold vacuum. (When you're not on boost, the gauge is measuring intake vacuum.) When my convertor clogged up, the very first symptom I noticed was that the boost gauge was hardly ever pegged on full vacuum when the engine was idling or the car was coasting (e.g. downhill).

> It seems to come and go or maybe my music is usually too loud to hear it but when I'm driving on smooth ground and my steering wheel is even the slightest to the right I hear (and feel) a clicking of sorts comming from the right side. If I turn the wheel to the left a little it goes away. [...] Only thing I've heard from people who know little is cv joint this and cv joint that.[/quote]

Yes, constant-velocity joints. You have two in each driveshaft, inner and outer. The outer ones do more work since they must allow the driving wheels to turn when you steer. If the rubber boot tears and allows dirt to get in, the ball bearings that are supposed to roll smoothly in the joint start binding and popping free under load, which makes the cracking-knuckles sound you hear. If you get that looked at soon enough, it'* possible to clean and repack the existing joint, and put a new boot on to protect it. Otherwise you'll need to get a new or rebuilt one put in. This will get worse pretty soon; have it diagnosed as soon as you can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJay
Looking at that side on a lift everything looks guum. (When you're not on boost, the gauge is measuring intake vacuum.) When my convertor clogged up, the very first symptom I noticed was that the boost gauge was hardly ever pegged on full vacuum when the engine was idling or the car was coasting (e.g. downhill).

> It seems to come and go or maybe my music is usually too loud to hear it but when I'm driving on smooth ground and my steering wheel is even the slightest to the right I hear (and feel) a clicking of sorts comming from the right side. If I turn the wheel to the left a little it goes away. [...] Only thing I've heard from people who know little is cv joint this and cv joint that.
Yes, constant-velocity joints. You have two in each driveshaft, inner and outer. The outer ones do more work since they must allow the driving wheels to turn when you steer. If the rubber boot tears and allows dirt to get in, the ball bearings that are supposed to roll smoothly in the joint start binding and popping free under load, which makes the cracking-knuckles sound you hear. If you get that looked at soon enough, it'* possible to clean and repack the existing joint, and put a new boot on to protect it. Otherwise you'll need to get a new or rebuilt one put in. This will get worse pretty soon; have it diagnosed as soon as you can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJay
Looking at that side on a lift everything looks great. Any ideas?
Pay special attention to each of the rubber boots on the driveshafts, and look for one that'* torn someplace along its folds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJay
I'd like to have an idea before I take it to the shop and pay $2000 for a new everything.
It won't be that bad, but may be in the low three figures if the existing hardware is too far gone to clean and repack.
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Old 02-18-2003, 09:12 PM   #3
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Quoted:
Product Description
BR930076 HUB ASSEMBLY - 235.13
INSTALL FWD BRGS - EACH - NON STUD - 67.00
THRUST ANGLE ALIGNMENT - DOMESTIC/IMPORT CARS, PICUPS, VANS - 44.95
After tax - 377.62

There has got to be a cheaper way. He said he checked the CV joints and they looked fine, this was for a ball joint.

Jason
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Old 02-18-2003, 09:53 PM   #4
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1987 - 1994
Pontiac
Bonneville
Lower Ball Joint
Each
85ZX7833N
$29.98
Hmm...well I can understand a 1000% price hike from Le Schwab suure yeah.
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Old 02-18-2003, 10:26 PM   #5
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Hey Doc, is your boost gauge at 7psi ALL THE TIME? Even with the ignition on, car not running?
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Old 02-19-2003, 11:25 AM   #6
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No only when its in drive and stopped. If I'm driving and let off the gas it goes to -10. If its parked its at -10. Put it in drive while stopped and it goes up. Interesting huh. Hey is it often that you need to replace an entire ball joint assembly? Suspension and the like is not my thing so I'm clueless.

Jason
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