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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-18-2009, 07:26 PM   #51
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Your temp should stay within a few degrees of 200, not drop down to 150. Dan is right about you having air in the system. I am not sure about the 94, but look to see if there is a bleeder screw on top of the thermostat housing.

Loose spark plugs can not be a source for steam. Be careful you don't over torque them.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:31 PM   #52
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If you don't have a bleeder. Remove the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat, then pour coolant in to the hole until it'* as full as you can get it, then slowly lower the thermostat in at a slight angel and a twist, then seat it. Put housing back on. Open radiator cap and pour coolant in. Give hose a little squeeze to burp out any air. This should prevent any air from being trapped under the thermostat.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:33 PM   #53
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Fairly certain there is a bleeder, just looks like an adjustable bolt on the top correct? How do I use this?
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:33 PM   #54
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It may not be going down all the way to 150, but somewhere in that range.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:37 PM   #55
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Just use a screwdriver and open it up.
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:43 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kparrent View Post
Fairly certain there is a bleeder, just looks like an adjustable bolt on the top correct? How do I use this?
Let the car cool right down. Remove the rad cap and top the rad up. Start the car, and top it up again. Reinstall the rad cap, and fill the overflow bottle to the full mark. Bring the car up to temp, then open the bleeder valve. My bleeder valve takes a 10 mm wrench or socket. Use the wrench to open the bleeder (counter clock wise). Leave it open until more fluid than air/steam is coming out, than tighten it back up. Let your car cool, which will draw more fluid from the overflow bottle into the rad. Once the car is completely cooled down again, check and adjust as required the fluid level in the overflow bottle.

Check the level in your overflow bottle every day until we are sure you aren't losing fluid anymore.

Your overheating may be caused by insufficient coolant in the system. Let'* rule that out first.
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Old 11-21-2009, 04:51 PM   #57
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I did find a coolant leak. I replaced the hose clamp and it solved the problem. I used the bleeder, coolant sprayed out for a few seconds, and I closed it back up. Still am getting steam. Coolant levels seem stable.

I did notice today neither of the radiator fans up front are spinning when the car is on. Could this be causing the steam, or at least what it is making it noticeable?
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Old 11-21-2009, 04:56 PM   #58
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To clarify, this was with coolant temps reading ~200
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Old 11-21-2009, 05:29 PM   #59
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Might want to check the relays and fuses for the fans. They should turn on around 180* or so.
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Old 11-24-2009, 07:00 PM   #60
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Here'* the update:

I have not had a chance to check the fans, but I don't think they are causing the steaming problem anyway for reasons I'll get to in a second here.

I had a work emergency come up in the middle of the night where I had no option but to drive the car on a 2 hour trip. I didn't like the idea any more than you guys do I'm sure, but I didn't have any other options. I took it for a couple of 20 minute test drives before, all seemed well, so I went for it.

The car made it and ran excellent the whole way. Coolant temp stayed just below 200 the whole trip (highway travel, no stops). This was a day or two ago, I just checked the coolant again and it is at perfect level still. So we can assume coolant is not leaking or burning at this point.

Oil level seems close to what it was before the trip. It could have possibly dropped just a little bit, but nothing significant by any means. I'll keep checking this over the next few days.

Anyway, here is the scenario. It does the white steam thing noticeably with the hood open when the car is cold started. After a few minutes, it becomes a little less noticeable if just left idling. If I drive it for a few minutes and let it get all the way up to temp, the steam is minimal to none with the hood open looking for it. There is also white steam from the exhaust when cold started.

I know these kind of point to a head gasket, but that wouldn't just pop up after a repair would it? How about a thermostat that is stuck open?

There were some spots on the driveway, but they didn't have distinct smell to them. Maybe just moisture.
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