Car not starting after repair - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-06-2009, 06:04 PM   #21
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Also,

Is it possible / safe to connect a jumper cable going from another car'* positive terminal to the solenoid, and then ground the other and be able to start the car this way?
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:45 PM   #22
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Any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:49 PM   #23
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Yes, you can do that, however, keep in mind there is very little room in that area and you risk a dead short to ground.
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Yes, you can do that, however, keep in mind there is very little room in that area and you risk a dead short to ground.
What would the outcome of the dead short to ground be? Part damage or danger?

If the car doesn't start this way, or at least click, this would be indicative of either something in the ignition or the starter correct? Is there a better way to test this?
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:55 PM   #25
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If no click or crank this way, the starter is shot.

What could happen with a dead short? Lots of sparks, if your lucky, exploding battery if your not.
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:59 PM   #26
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Well neither of those sound like a whole lot of fun. Is the solenoid only receiving 12V when the key is turned to start? In other words, could I use a multimeter to check the voltage on that positive terminal on the solenoid while someone turns the key?

I also read something about jumping the pins from the positive terminal to the wire going into the starter from the solenoid and the starter should spin. Is this accurate?
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:15 PM   #27
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I believe I posted a link in this thread about testing the starting system. Have you tried doing any of these tests?
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:56 AM   #28
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I just replaced the upper intake on a 98 park avenue. Engine wasnt hydro locked but it did some serious grunting before turning over. It did have coolant in the cylinders. Had to remove all the plugs, turn it over and blow it out and replace the plugs to get it to start.

Coolant in the cylinders is very common with intake issues/repairs.

Did you try to turn the car over with a wrench on the crank pulley? If you can turn it over manually then its not loaded up with coolant and would then be an electrical/starter/battery issue. Good luck
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Old 11-11-2009, 06:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
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I believe I posted a link in this thread about testing the starting system. Have you tried doing any of these tests?
Sorry for the delay, I have been out of town.

Danthurs, all the tests checked out fine. Also, that article was for the solenoid clicking. I am not getting any clicking from my solenoid, but I ran them anyway.
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Old 11-11-2009, 06:05 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BADLEG View Post
I just replaced the upper intake on a 98 park avenue. Engine wasnt hydro locked but it did some serious grunting before turning over. It did have coolant in the cylinders. Had to remove all the plugs, turn it over and blow it out and replace the plugs to get it to start.

Coolant in the cylinders is very common with intake issues/repairs.

Did you try to turn the car over with a wrench on the crank pulley? If you can turn it over manually then its not loaded up with coolant and would then be an electrical/starter/battery issue. Good luck
Can you provide more details about how to turn it over manually? I'll give it a shot.
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