Car not starting after repair - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-11-2009, 06:07 PM   #31
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To turn the engine over manually, just take out all the plugs, then you can simply grab the belt and turn it that way. Or put a large wrench on the bolt on the balancer pulley, that'* the one on the bottom of the engine.
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Old 11-11-2009, 06:35 PM   #32
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Excellent. Thanks for the fast response.

How difficult will it be to do without the plugs in? Will I be able to tell if it'* locked?

And to clarify.. the engine being hydrolocked wouldn't prevent solenoid clicking would it?
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Old 11-11-2009, 06:41 PM   #33
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It will turn fairly easy with out the plugs in.

If it was hydrolocked the starter would engage, and be unable to turn the engine. You would hear it.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:31 PM   #34
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For example, the whining / buzzing sound? Or just clicking and such?

Here'* a riddle for you. I only had a little bit of daylight today, so I did some DVOM tests on the starter. I am getting 12 V to the solenoid on the positive terminal. I removed the small wire coming from the ignition and hooked it up to the meter. Every turn of the key 11 - 12 V. This rules out VATS if I'm correct, along with the security light not being lit. Checked battery voltages from positive to negative terminal, roughly 12 V. Checked from positive terminal to where the negative cable connects to the block. Roughly 12 V.

Hooked the meter up to the ignition wire while someone turned the key. Jumped around, but went up to 11 V at its peak. Starter didn't make any noise. We tried this a couple times, and eventually the solenoid started clicking. First just barely. Then a little more and a little more. The lights were dim because he was holding the key briefly while I checked voltages, hence the battery was low. We got his car, jumped it, battery went up to 13.5V. Turn the key with cables still connected, no clicks. Same as before lights just dim while the key is turned, but no sound. Unhooked the cables. Same at first, but then as the battery went below 12 V we got some clicking again. HUH?

I did not have a chance to try and turn the engine over manually. I plan on doing that tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:36 PM   #35
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I say pull the starter and have it and the solenoid tested
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:46 PM   #36
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Started was tested and passed.

Might take the battery in for a test, but it was replaced in July with a new one. I was able to get a few faint clicks while trying to jump today though. After the cables were removed immediately went down to 11 V or so.

Anyway, I removed the front 3 spark plugs and rotated the drive belt towards the passenger seat. It wasn't the easiest thing to rotate in the world, but it wasn't horrible. It did rotate for a few pulls, and then all of a sudden some kind of fluid leaked out all over the ground, and then I was unable to turn it anymore. What'* this mean? Could this be from cleaning the lower intake with degreaser / hosing (recommended by the Autozone guy)
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:47 PM   #37
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Also, I didn't try starting the car again. Do I need to rotate the belt back in the other direction first? Or should I try to make it rotate past that point where it'* stuck?
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:09 PM   #38
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Also, I didn't try starting the car again. Do I need to rotate the belt back in the other direction first? Or should I try to make it rotate past that point where it'* stuck?

Do not start the car. If you got a lot of fluid out when you removed the 3 front plugs, you need to remove the 3 back plugs and repeat turning the engine over. There is probably fluid in one or more of the rear cylinders that is preventing the engine from turning over.
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:12 PM   #39
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Excellent. That'* what I wanted to know. I'm assuming remove the front 3 again as well while doing this?

So, assuming I get fluid to leak out, which I probably will, am I going to get to a point where it won't turn? If this is supposed to happen, do I then rotate the belt back in the opposite direction before starting it or does it matter? Thanks
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:29 PM   #40
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Excellent. That'* what I wanted to know. I'm assuming remove the front 3 again as well while doing this?

So, assuming I get fluid to leak out, which I probably will, am I going to get to a point where it won't turn? If this is supposed to happen, do I then rotate the belt back in the opposite direction before starting it or does it matter? Thanks
Actually, if you pull all 6 plugs you might try turning the engine over with the starter. Make sure the plug wires are clear of the belts, fan, or any other moving parts.

Make double, triple, quadruple sure you mark which spark plug wire goes where, both at the coils and at the spark plugs. Wouldn't want to get them mixed up.

You keep referring to turning the engine over with a belt. You should be turning it over with a wrench on the bolt in the harmonic balancer. You might find it easier. If you use the belt, make sure the engine is actually turning, not just the belt slipping.

With all 6 plugs out, you should be able to continue turning the engine in the same direction for as many revolutions as you need to ensure all the fuilds are out. There is no need to turn it back. Everything in the valve train that is related to rotational position of the engine is turning when you turn the engine. There is no need to return it to the position you started at, for example.
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