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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-13-2007, 01:57 PM   #41
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To test the blower motor.. apply ground and battery voltage to it. Directly. (Ps..hang on good..because it'll want to rip out of your hands.)
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Old 09-13-2007, 02:16 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
To test the blower motor.. apply ground and battery voltage to it. Directly. (Ps..hang on good..because it'll want to rip out of your hands.)
i did that back about 2 weeks ago and the blower when about 20 foot away from me and then i got a good grip on it and it ran just fine at all angles that i put it at (PS: it was funny as H.E.L.L. to see that i could not stop laughing about it for at lest an hour or more.)
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Old 09-13-2007, 05:36 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadkills
when i measure the amps i just put the two ends of my amp meter into the plug and that is how i get .06mAh at the blower motor plug. it would have to have a good ground if i can read volts on it, right? and i measure that volts through the plug also.
Um, no. You can measure voltage between hot lead and ground, but to measure amperage of the circuit, you have to have your meter in-line with the device while it'* operating, so you can measure the amount of current flow in the circuit, to determine how much draw or load the device is exerting.

In other words, current needs to flow from the power lead into your amp meter, out the other side to the (operating) blower motor, and from there to ground. IMPORTANT NOTE: Your amp meter must be capable of measuring 15 amps DC or more. Many digital meters measure only milliamps (you might see "mA" on the scale), or thousandths of an amp, and can be fried by a high current flow. The .06mAh that you're seeing now is, I think, the current being consumed by your test meter itself, as it doesn't sound like you have the blower motor in the circuit through the meter.

Can you get your hands on another, known-good blower motor, even just for a day? That might help the diagnosis here.
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:42 PM   #44
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The blower motor relay is the third from the left whenlooking at the relays from the front of the car. I can't find a direct fuse for the blower motor. I can't find the electronic controller either. Can anyone help me with this? The air accutated switch which determines AC or vent or heat also has an electric switch which allows power to the fan switch. The fan switch then directs that power to the reastat or resister bank which determines the fan speed. I am having trouble figuring out what tells the relay to pull in to close the circuit to allow power to the fan motor. There must be another controller somewhere. T-Man
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:45 PM   #45
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They also make clamp on amp meters, but I believe there is something calling for the fan and that is what pulls the relay in. Put your fingers on the relay while the motor is running, have the AC awitch on and have someone turn that switch on and off to see if you can feel the relay opening and closing. T-Man
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Old 09-14-2007, 04:03 PM   #46
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Quote:
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I am having trouble figuring out what tells the relay to pull in to close the circuit to allow power to the fan motor. There must be another controller somewhere. T-Man
The High setting of the fan switch acts to close the high-speed bypass relay on the firewall, giving full power to the fan via a separate power supply.

Lower speeds of the fan switch are routed through the resistor pack to step down the voltage to lower settings.

I could be more specific once I trace it in the manual, but the manual'* at home and I'm not. :(
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