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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-12-2007, 04:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadkills
so what one is it or have you even look in to it yet? just wonding if you have found out yet or not.
My apologies; I haven't. Am looking to see if one of the other Gearheads can pinpoint that for you quicker than I...

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Old 09-12-2007, 04:35 PM   #32
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well time is not a mater know because in georgia it is starting to cool down but as long as i get it before it starts getting cool down here i will be fine.
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Old 09-12-2007, 04:43 PM   #33
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I've drawn a large "B" on the side of my hand as a reminder to myself to look up the Blower info tonight...
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:31 PM   #34
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Putting hte fan on high bypasses the resistor pack iirc. Do you have roughly 12v at the connector. Measure with the fan disconnected.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:30 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acg_ssei
I've drawn a large "B" on the side of my hand as a reminder to myself to look up the Blower info tonight...
All righty, I have the info here now. The resistor pack is located below the large bank of relays on the firewall. According to the manual, you need to partially remove the relay center in order to get access to the resistor back. (It'* not difficult.)

As popatim says: Do you at least have High working? That is a relay-activated bypass that doesn't use the resistor pack at all. Does the blower operate in high? Can you measure voltage at the blower'* supply wire when the fan control is on High?

I have photocopies now of the two pages that discuss how to remove and replace the resistor pack, with diagrams. If you want to send me an email with a fax number, I can fax them to you, or if you email me your mailing address, I can drop them in the mail. Let me know...
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Old 09-13-2007, 11:10 AM   #36
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with the fan on high and at the plug it is reading 12v and .06 mAh so that is what is going on there.but on high the fan will not move. lol so. what could be the problems
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Old 09-13-2007, 11:11 AM   #37
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The supply of power isn't coming through with any real amperage to move the fan. On the electronic one...this would be caused by the control module. On your version though..the high speed fan should be direct to battery through a relay. It'* odd that you have poor amps.
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Old 09-13-2007, 11:57 AM   #38
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yeah i know it has me stomped and that is y i was asking all the gear heads and every one else if they could figer it would i will try any thing to get it too work it is 93 degrees here too day i would like to have the ac. but what is that amps that the fan runs on i was just thinking about puting it on a switch so i need to know the amps?
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Old 09-13-2007, 12:32 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadkills
yeah i know it has me stomped and that is y i was asking all the gear heads and every one else if they could figer it would i will try any thing to get it too work it is 93 degrees here too day i would like to have the ac. but what is that amps that the fan runs on i was just thinking about puting it on a switch so i need to know the amps?
How were you measuring the amperage? For voltage you can measure between the supply wire and ground, but for current flow you're measuring between supply wire and the terminal of the blower motor that it connects to, yes? And the blower motor has a good ground, right?

At this point I'd be curious to swap in another, known-good blower motor just for yucks...

Incidentally, with the ignition on and the engine _not_ running, you should be able to hear an audible *click* from the high-speed bypass relay when you switch your fan control from any lower speed to the Hi position. Try going back and forth a couple of times, in and out of Hi, to be sure you're hearing a click from somewhere.

P.*. If you want to hotwire the blower temporarily (which might not be a bad idea anyhow, just to prove that it works in its installed position), any 15-amp toggle switch should be okay. Make sure you're using a fused circuit, though, so that you've got something that will blow if overloaded, such as if the blower motor seizes up.
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Old 09-13-2007, 12:51 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acg_ssei
How were you measuring the amperage? For voltage you can measure between the supply wire and ground, but for current flow you're measuring between supply wire and the terminal of the blower motor that it connects to, yes? And the blower motor has a good ground, right?
when i measure the amps i just put the two ends of my amp meter into the plug and that is how i get .06mAh at the blower motor plug. it would have to have a good ground if i can read volts on it, right? and i measure that volts through the plug also.
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