I wonder if it'* the ignition switch.

Have you checked for voltage out the proper wires on the switch in the ON position and then in START?

So none of the guages will come on on the dash. Whether in start or in on position.

Then for ***** and giggles, I attached the jumper cable to the small start ,lead on the starter and then to the positive cable on the battery. THis is all with a jumper runing to one of my other cars. So, when I did that then starter truned. to which i though that if I were to keep the key in the ignition switch in the on position that it would start and run. Or if I were to keep it into the start position while doing this it would run as well. No go at all.

I even checked the sparks to see if there was anything, and as well no go. So, I think my problem might be evolving, or I could be getting close. I want to upload some pictures, but haven't figured out how to do that yet.

I hear a clicking sound from the passenger side fusebox when I turn the key to the start position. I think this has somehting to do with it but I can't be sure. So here is a movie I took. If you listen closley you can hear the click from the box after about 5 seconds.

Thanks for all of the help. By the way Ted. You are awesome. I am still trying to find the Pass Key module.

Here'* the website. Thanks for everything.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqQc-hlulKI

There are fuses & circuit breakers under the hood on the firewall. Are any of the those circuit breakers clicking?

No, none of those are clicking.

Do you know which relay is clicking?

http://usera.imagecave.com/system/sh...zeclick.JPG&a=

There is the link. Tell me if it doesn't work. I have outlined it

If 98 & 99'* are the same then that'* for Retained Accessory Power. I'm assuming it doesn't start with that relay unplugged. Try switching with the other black relay.

Yeah I did that, I had switched the relays around and still no go.

Thanks

PM me with an email address. I want to send you some wiring diagrams.

The fact that none of the gauges "come on" in either run or start could mean that power is not coming from the ignition switch. Here'* one way you can test the function of the ignition switch. Refer to the schematic TechnicalTed posted for you above.

Test the 60 amp ignition fuse in the right hand maxi fuse block and verify that power is getting to that fuse. Pull the fuse, then put one lead from a test light on a good ground and the other (one at a time) in each fuse blade socket. One side (the line side) should light the lamp at all times. Then check the continuity of the 60 amp fuse. If it is good, put the fuse back in place. At that point, unless you have a wiring problem between the 60 amp fuse and the ignition switch, you should have power to the ignition switch.

Having verified power to the 60 amp fuse and that the fuse is good, you can test the ignition switch by pulling the 10 amp airbag/vats fuse (2E) from the instrument panel fuse block. Using a test light in the same way, with one lead on a good ground and the other lead in each of the fuse blade sockets, determine whether there is power with the key turned to run or start. There should be 12 volts on the line side fuse blade socket. If the bulb does not light in either socket, you probably have a bad ignition switch or (less likely) bad wiring to or from it.