A faulty PCM is a possibility. The 95'* were known to be flaky. What part of the PCM I don't know.

I found a procedure to verify that the cam sensor, crank sensor and the ICM are working as they should. I will check them all tomorrow and see what I find. I did not verify them since I have the injectors pulsing when cranking, however I believe the ICM sends a signal to the PCM to pulse the injectors, so verify their operation would be a good idea. I will post my findings......

the signal comes from the tdm, and goes to the pcm, so if you measure nothing in the wire to the tdm, its bad or the circuit to it is bad

Ok, here is the update. I checked the ICM out and did not find anything wrong, so I went ahead and replaced the PCM. I checked for 5volts at WD 14 and found to have 5volts that I was missing on the old one. Since I had already purchased the vats replacement module I installed it too. After installing, I turned the key on and found that I had the 50 Hz signal that I was missing also. So I turn the key to start and I get crank, but no start. I spent the afternoon going back over everything to make sure I had not jacked something else up, but I had spark, fuel, air and no reason why it should not run. I pulled the plugs and found they were really fouled bad. They were completely wet and black, so I wiped them all off. (These were new plugs just installed) I tried to start and it did... Finally!!! One lesson learned, make sure you check those plugs.. However, I looked at the exhaust and I see white smoke coming out, I mean really
As stated earlier in my post I just replaced the LIM gasket and the Upper plenum and gasket. I have not even driven the car more than a couple miles since replacement. So I guess my question now is, could the LIM be warped? I did not check it for being warped or did my gasket not seal? I did follow the torque patterns and used the felpro metal gasket. So it looks like one problem possibly solved and back to another one....... any suggestions before I throw in the towel?......

Well, congrats on getting it to run to begin with. Just for giggles, have you thought about putting the original VATS module back in to determine if it was PCM or VATS related?

White mist out the exhaust is usually normal. Could be moisture built up in the fuel. Or, like you suspect, could be coolant. Next time you see white exhaust, go sniff it. Seriously. Sniff it. If it smells sweet, then ya, your burning coolant. If it smells a tad rich(cold start=normal) or just burns your nose(hot=normal) then your fine. Just keep an eye on your coolant level for the next week or so depending on how much you drive.

No, I decided to not press my luck and leave well enough alone.... I do know that I did not have the 5 volts at the pcm'* WD 14 connector with the vats disconnected per the instruction on the troubleshooting guide you posted. I also was concerned as to what caused this to happen, such as was it the vats that caused the loss of 5 volts at the pcm. I was afraid that if I put the original vats module back in with the new PCM it could cause the loss of 5 volts again. I decided to not push my luck... I wanted to thank you and everyone who help with this problem, you guys are the best! I learned a ton about the entire system and how it works. I will watch my coolant level to see if any is lost.

Just an FYI-I bought a $40.00 multi meter that had the ability to read frequency at Harbor Freight and it worked great. It read the 50 Hz signal that is needed at pin wd 14 on the pcm. ....

Heck, I don't blame ya.

For anyone else reading this, what'* the part number for that multi-meter?

The multimeter is a Cen-Tech item # 98674. Here is the link:

5-in-1 Digital Multimeter

good to hear you got her going, and thanks for posting the fix

Glad to hear the bypass worked, sucks you also had to replace the PCM.
Hopefully the smoking clears up, keep us posted.