1994 bonnie 3.8l se used transaxle replacement tips. - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 09-01-2015, 11:44 AM   #1
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Question 1994 bonnie 3.8l se used transaxle replacement tips.

when changing any transmission or transaxle the marking of the torque converter to flywheel/clutch plate process applies to reinstalling the same converter,how do you do it for a different converter that has no made mark on it?also are there any more tips-do'* or dont'* on installing a used tranny,besides flushing the cooler lines and checking the condition of the transaxle pan contents for debris. how much metal shaving is acceptable to say that this unit will perform well?thank you for your time..
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:47 AM   #2
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when changing any transmission or transaxle the marking of the torque converter to flywheel/clutch plate process applies to reinstalling the same converter,how do you do it for a different converter that has no made mark on it?also are there any more tips-do'* or dont'* on installing a used tranny,besides flushing the cooler lines and checking the condition of the transaxle pan contents for debris. how much metal shaving is acceptable to say that this unit will perform well?thank you for your time..
i also forgot to mention that the used unit i bought fluid is a deep reddish brown,maybe more brown but definitely not burnt smelling. i hope it'* ok,what do you think?..it'* always a gamble.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:53 PM   #3
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you said it yourself its always a gamble just change the fluid and filter flush your lines install it and hope for the best the amount of material acceptable depends on the mileage of the trans but i think itd be pretty obvious
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:20 PM   #4
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Reddish brown is a red flag...

Always drop pan and check for debris/metal/excessive clutch material before installing....

Should empty the converter, and replace the converter seal.....also replace the axle seals.....

Low mileage is a plus....
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:12 PM   #5
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Ok so what about the torque converter markup relationship?
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:27 PM   #6
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Theres nothing you can do about that bud..thats one of those deals that you do when you pull yours and put it back in
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:13 PM   #7
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Theres nothing you can do about that bud..thats one of those deals that you do when you pull yours and put it back in
so the way you should answer me is.......there ain't nothing i can do about that.It doesn't matter anyway.the flywheel has been balanced independently from the torque converter.the torque converter has also been balanced independently.when putting independently balanced rotating parts together to spin as one and the counter balance is off it will make the engine and transaxle vibrate beyond stability.does this sound right? or am i just trying to sound all technical with my morning buzz and coffee?.so your saying i don't have to worry about engine shudder/vibration if i don't get them matched correctly?.come on man help me out with concise accurate to the point answers,not a tease. correct answers like"pulling mine and putting it back in"...i am not putting in the old one again,i'm replacing it with the one that came with the used tranny that i'm going to install.are you saying that i should reinstall the old converter after dumping and flushing it?..if that'* the case i have the mark for that so there'* no problem with that and don't need to waste my time and yours by asking.my first original post could have all been answered in on reply instead of 2 or 3..good thing i'm slow and working on the street that i didn't need an answer like 4 days ago,but today i will need to know as i believe i will get this tranny in and done..i'm going by a haynes manual that is driving me crazy as well like it has done many times in the past.they're telling me to do this and that and looking at the pics for bolts i didn't see.i had to do things my way a bit and so far at least now i got the tranny on the ground without having to pull the whole rusty subframe to rusted out no 2 rear point connections left rusted out frame. it took me quite some time on ordering the right subframe bushing kits that were specified for grand prix not bonnies and were priced a whole lot cheaper.i had to do so much research on that let alone getting em in there which i was able to do at a friends shop with a lift.haynes also told me to disconnect the rack and attach to body and lower subframe.they also told me to remove the motor mount to body.hmmm....i'm glad i didn't try to lift it out from the top like i thought i could do,lol!..that was my original plan.we are human we do make mistakes,but with publications that people need to rely on.that'* why there are proof readers and other employees to go over it all before it gets published. why is it that i spot problems and errors before i can fix my own problems and errors-happens quite a bit to me if it'* not computers or my plumbing and heating biz stuff or this car stuff which i kinda lost my knack for from the long winters that i don't do it and being too busy doing what i do for a living which just pays the bills.oh well we all have to learn somehow...sorry,thanks for letting me vent here.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:51 AM   #8
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Your flexplate is balanced....the converter is balanced....should make no difference which way it goes together......

The rule of thumb is, when the same parts go back together, you want them in the same position, when you have them marked....that goes out the window when new parts are installed...
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:05 AM   #9
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now there'* a straight to the point answer that i wanted..i still haven't gotten it in the car yet.trying to line it all up.whew! it'* tought without a tranny jack.thanks again.oh btw i have been moved up in rank from a 'posts like a ricer'.i never got an answer to that when i had asked some time ago-i think i kinda know what it means.but now i'm a 'v-tak',whatever that means...lol!
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Old 02-27-2016, 03:06 PM   #10
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worked like a charm. i did the above suggestions. i never did a transaxle replacement before and from what the haynes manual told me to do on everything - i don't think that i want to do another one ever again.the manual told me to pull the whole subframe assembly down,nope not after having gone through the whole mess of getting the subframe bushings found. i was going to replace em' with exact bushings for bonneville which cost alot more so instead i bought the grand prix ones instead-same specs and saved quite a few bucks too.next was to put them into almost rotted through rear front holes and then the 2 remaining rotted through holes i used the old front ones and put them in.i didn't have that much bite because those were rotted through.so i don't have the full stable support that i'm supposed to have but it works fine...next they told me to pull the power steering rack out to-what for? i didn't have anything to do with lowering the transaxle down and out.what they meant to tell me was to disconnect the bolts that make up the half of subframe and lower and remove it out of the way so that i could lower trans out...anyway,i got it all out and in- started it and there was no vibration shudder out of balance-idling or at any driving speeds. it shifts a little firm into second gear cold but smooths out when it gets hot.the parking shift indicator and detents are way off even after adjusting the whole- i found out later and am glad that i didn't get rid of the old trans right away that the arm on it was longer than my original shorter one- didn't get around to changing yet.also the speed is off by 6mph.i wonder how i can change that to the correct ratio-i'd hate to get a speeding ticket.it gets confusing to remember that in order to do 65 i need to go 71 mph?... lol! thanks again.
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