OK fellas. Thanks for all the help so far. I pulled off the ignition coils and checked the female pin connectors in the ICM, they all seemed snug. I also sanded the ground plate under it and spread some dielectric grease for good measure. That didn't remedy the problem.

When I was putting it on jackstands, I jacked up the passenger side first. I noticed that a good sized puddle of water poured out from the drivers side rear end. I'm assuming this was built up in the door sills.

So I proceeded to take off the driver side door sills to try and dig up a harness to check for corrosion. My model doesn't have the relatively easy to get to harness that is pictured in one of the diagrams here. I could see the wires running down there, but have no idea how to get to them short of removing the carpet. Any tips on how to get to those wires bundles that run under the driver side door sills would be appreciated.

I also noticed a switch by the drivers side fuse panel. :?: It'* located near the plug that diagnostic tools plug into. I went through the Haynes manual and found no mention of this switch. Anyone know what it does?

Still trying to bang out this problem. I've got the weekend before I need it up and running. Oh yeah, btw, it stopped cranking.

Can you take a picture? You can load it up to photobucket.com and paste the image link into the edit field here.

I'm not familiar with a switch being there, at least not like a toggle, push button one, etc. Could it be a "kill switch":?: No such luck, huh?

No problem. I'll upload it tomorrow. It'* not a push button, just a typical steel toggle switch. :?:

Sounding like something that a previous owner has installed... maybe an ignition kill switch (security)... could we be so lucky. Check to be sure a wire is on both sides and one hasn't fallen off. If you haven't already, try the switch in both positions and starting.

OOps... was just reviewing all this. Did you ever get the fuel pressure checked?

OK. I think I got it figured.

I changed out the rubber vacuum hoses from the fuel pressure regulator and some other ones that connect to the tranny. Also scrubber every ground in the car. She started up like a charm, but still stalled. :(

BUT!..... I think I found my problem. It'* my fuel pressure regulator!.....I think. After running it for a while, and stalling a few times in the process (but hey! it starts every time it stalls now at least!), I pulled a vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator and found a bit of gas in it. Upon further inspection, I noticed the regulator was an aftermarket BOSCH. From what I've read, BOSCH and GM doesn't mix.

So I'm gonna pick up a new fuel pressure regulator tomorrow, and snap some pics of that curious little toggle switch under my dash (played with it, can't figure out what the hell it does).

I'll report back with pics of the mystery switch, and success/failure of the fuel pressure regulator swap tomorrow. No if only I could find my snap-ring pliers to get the old one off....[/i]

Fuel pressure regulator did the trick!!!!

Problem is, now my AC compressor clutch is spinning wildly :?: It'* not in sync with the rest of the pully and burning up the outside part of the clutch in doing so. Anyone know how to fix the clutch without changing the whole compressor?

Once again, I'm back to square one. The stalling has been fixed. Now the problem has it not getting spark consistently. This morning I started it up and took it to a friends to flush the coolant. The car drove well all the way there, but would not start after we changed the coolant.

We checked the plug wires and found that I wasn't getting spark from any of them. I took out the ICM, took it to advanced and had it tested. It failed the test so I bought a new one. The new one didn't help anything. I'm still getting no spark.

What could be doing this? I'm not getting spark from any wire from any coil pack.

Crankshaft Position Sensor maybe? I'm at a loss. I had to get a ride home because we got tired of messing with it. We started at 7:30 and went to 4:30.

So far I have changed:

Camshaft sensor
Spark Plugs
Oil
ECM
ICM


any suggestions would be great.

If it is the crank sensor, how do you go about changing that? I looked up instructions on how to do it, and it says that a special tool it required to 'gap' the new crank sensor :?:

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, the crankshaft sensor can cause that, that is if it is a failed part and not something win the wiring/connectors.
Are you getting any codes, though? This may get us to the right area.

I'm not 100% sure if your 92 has the adjustable of fixed (pinned) Crankshaft sensor. 93 is fixed and has an alignment hole and matching pin. If it is adjustable, the adjustment is to move it in and out related to the window that the slotted timing wheel fits in (so you don't chew up the sensor). The hardest part for most is likely getting the harmonic balancer/pulley off. Below is a post where I had to fix multiple problems, the crankshaft sensor being one of them. There are tips to getting the pulley removed, etc.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...971&highlight=

Another cause could be no more than a loose fitting female pin on the ICM connector or the 2 sensors (cam and crankshaft) or on the PCM (larger 32 pin connector). Best way for the avg. Joe to check these is with a standard sized bare metal paper clip. Of course, straighten one end out and delicately insert into each female pin on the plug(*), comparing the "grip" of each one. If there is one or more that don't feel as tight as the others, that is a suspect pin that will need to be tightened. Loose pins will drive you buggy with intermittant problems until you fix them. Of course, the easiest ones to get to are the ICM connector and PCM connector. Sometimes just unplugging and replugging will temporarily rid you of the problem. But it will likely be back in days or months.

im not sure but above when you said you changed plugs etc... did you change the wires also?