1992 Bonneville SE Cranks, rarely starts. - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-28-2008, 03:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamspy
Any other common grounding spots I should look for corrosion?
Grounds: I think your 92 is pretty much the same as my 93. That ICM bracket that Ted mentioned is mounted to the block on 2 studs with double nuts on them. The one closest to the front of the car has the heavy battery ground cable on it. The OTHER stud has some smaller black wires on it. This one is "G100." One of the wires is the ground reference for the PCM. Anyway, be sure all of those are cleaned up good. For grins, there is a ground point on each front fender, inside the hood area. Will have a few black wires on those too. Other grounds are one each behind both front seat kick panels. The grounds are with sheet metal screws. I've read about a ground "hub" thing, under the carpet at the driver side door sill. It is a point where several grounds come together for a lot of things and the wires may be white. However, I was cheated and don't seem to have that on my 93. This latter one has been prone to corrosion in some climates.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:01 PM   #12
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I have a 92 SSE with the SAME EXACT Problem... It'* Really Frustrating.

Does Yours turn over ?

mine did but recently stop ? :(

But The place where a bunch of grounds come together and one point is
there on mine so i'm guessing you have one too i checked mine and it
seemed perfectly fine but it does only take about 5 minutes to check.

I'm going to follow this problem close hoping that its' the same
thing wrong with mine.
Good Luck !!!
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:04 PM   #13
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From reading the forum the past few days, it seems a lot of people are having identical symptoms with the year range right now.

Mine still cranks like a champ, but it has a new battery and a pretty new alternator.



On a side note:

I went and picked up some jackstands from a friends, as well as some more tools so I didn't have to wait until the weekend, so anyone who knows of things I should check for underneath the car, let me know. I'm putting her up on the stands first thing in the morning and checking everything I can.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:06 PM   #14
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The ICM plug seems nearly impossible to pull out on my model. I've got pretty big mits, so maybe I should ask a neighbor to try and get their hand down there.

Any tips on getting the plug out of the ICM to check the connectors?

Mine is a 92 btw.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:10 PM   #15
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Did you loosen the 7mm bolt in the middle?
If you remove the coils you can move the ICM a little & get your hands on it.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:20 PM   #16
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I did see that bolt down there. I could fit my ratchet down there.

Thing about the coil packs is the tiny little bolts on them are pretty rusty. I gave them a good WD40 bath today in hopes they will loosen by morning. I don't even know if I have a socket small enough to get a hold of them.

Anyone know what size the little bolts on the coil packs is?
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:36 PM   #17
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Coils bolts are 5.5mm (7/32 will also fit). PB Blaster works 100 times better than WD40.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Coils bolts are 5.5mm (7/32 will also fit). PB Blaster works 100 times better than WD40.
Well, I'll have to give that a shot.

Always figured there was something better for stubborn screws.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:45 PM   #19
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If you think the coil screws are going to break then unbolt the mounting plate from the bracket & you can spray the PB Blaster where the tapped holes are on the bottom of the mounting plate. If you spray the top of the bolts it'll never get to the threads. The bolts are about 1.5 inches long. There'* three 11 mm nuts underneath the mounting bracket to remove the mounting plate & ICM assembly. You may have to remove the neg battery cable to gain access to one of the nuts. That'* one of the grounding areas that you want to clean anyway. There should be at least one other wire on that stud with the neg cable. Here'* a link to an article with excellent pictures of the ICM, plate & bracket.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=99
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
If you think the coil screws are going to break then unbolt the mounting plate from the bracket & you can spray the PB Blaster where the tapped holes are on the bottom of the mounting plate. If you spray the top of the bolts it'll never get to the threads. The bolts are about 1.5 inches long. There'* three 11 mm nuts underneath the mounting bracket to remove the mounting plate & ICM assembly. You may have to remove the neg battery cable to gain access to one of the nuts. That'* one of the grounding areas that you want to clean anyway. There should be at least one other wire on that stud with the neg cable. Here'* a link to an article with excellent pictures of the ICM, plate & bracket.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=99
Great pics. Those will definitely come in handy tomorrow. Gonna pick up a can of PB Blaster and check that assembly out tomorrow. I'll report back with the results.


btw
I found some NASTY looking fuel lines coming from the gas tank. 5" sections of them seem entirely corroded with rust. From what I gather from the Haynes manual, I can replace those sections with fuel line grade rubber tubing. Correct?

What would the procedure be for removing the corroded sections of the steel line and replacing it with fuel line grade rubber?
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