Well, one thing that I just thought up: Next time you crank it for a long while without success, pull a plug or three. If it'* wet, it'* a spark issue. If it'* dry, it'* a fuel issue. Well... not quite that cut-and-dry, but a good start.

ok. i'll do that tomorrow. excellent idea.

well i cleaned up the delco packs to COMPLETELY eliminate the possibility of them shorting out via corrosion.

Disassembled, painted backing plate with anti corrosive, painted heads of screws with same, applied dielectric grease to coil pins and will be reinstalling tomorrow.

some pics

Okay, I'm confused.

You don't leave those three nuts on the mounting bolts/studs when it'* mounted on the car, do you? I would think that assembly should be right up against the engine bracket, nothing between.

Does that paint conduct electricity? If not, you'd be relying on the bolts to do your conducting...

Ok, for future reference, I'm an idiot. Don't paint the mounting plate. Ever.

Well now THATS done, spark is confirmed FINE...so now what? I checked the fuel pressure after it had been sitting and there was NO pressure, I tested it while off when primed and it was sorta there, and then tested when idling and it was REALLY there. So I suspect its just having a problem keeping the pressure IN the line. So what is that a checkvalve somewhere? Can I install another checkvalve maybe custom?

Oooh, oooh!! Jon has an idea.

You have confirmed spark, so that'* good. Lets go with fuel then.

You say you have no pressure after sitting, some pressure after a prime, and good pressure while running. Interesting.

It might be the check valve back at the sending unit, as you think. It might prime, but then the prime leaks back before the engine actually starts. Maybe...

So here'* my idea. You know that test lead up by your battery? It'* a direct wire to the fuel pump. Just jump it directly to the battery (+), and the pump is on. Even if your key isn't in the ignition. So jump that wire so that the pump is just running away, THEN see how it starts, with the wire still jumped. The check valve wouldn't matter while the pump is running, right? Right.

There may be another explanation if it works, but it would at least be more information to work with. It still could be a defective FPR too... hard to say without a gauge and a pinched off return line. Maybe there'* some debris in the line? Rust flakes? I can see something like that taking out a brand new FPR, keeping it from sealing like it should.

I don't know of any aftermarket check valve, but one may exist. Another option that seems ghetto at first glance, but may fit the application anyway, would be to wire up a momentary contact switch on the dash as a bypass/override of the fuel pump relay. Push the button and turn the key.

But first things first. See what that test shows ya, if you agree with my logic behind it.

AH HAH!

http://www.aeromotion.com/id62.htm

e-mailed that website, no response....

ok. ALL available units , we have an APB out for an in-line 3/8" fitting fuel line check valve!

someone? any one? deputies? uhh. where'd yah go.

prime first or not.