Starting Problems. Extended, repeated cranking. - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-07-2007, 01:53 AM   #31
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Piece of cake. You can eyeball it yourself. As said, do NOT drop the screws. Otherwise, it'* a really easy job.

Even though I have my doubts about it being the cause of the problem...
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Old 08-07-2007, 04:29 AM   #32
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I had a similar problem, but very hard to describe. So I cleaned the IAC and it semed to help.
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Old 08-07-2007, 09:35 AM   #33
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An IAC is basically a controlled vacuum leak.

What is your fuel pressure after sitting for 10-15 minutes w/o cranking?
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:01 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
An IAC is basically a controlled vacuum leak.

What is your fuel pressure after sitting for 10-15 minutes w/o cranking?
* a controlled vacuum leak which passes by the MAF sensor.

John doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge yet. Buy yourself a gauge, man! You'll thank yourself for it, and us for suggesting it, for many years to come!
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Old 08-07-2007, 06:25 PM   #35
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Ok...I'm going to pass on that for right now. And I will be sure to buy one as soon as I have the money. (thats why i'm trying to sell some stuff right now)

Whats next on the list? My FSM is not going to help me much right now, It was sitting on a shelf right near and old bottle of used 7,500mile Mobil 1 and for some reason the bottle decided to leak, my FSM took it up like a sponge.

Went out this morning, did the same thing, did NOT want to start, but starts fine after sitting. This is the same thing it was doing before the changing of the FSM. I've even let the pump prime, and then prime again repeated times and not even that helps. Its like it wants to crank at first and then after two seconds stops sounding like its trying to turn over and just sounds like its just turning the engine. Sounds like theres NO pressure backing up in the rail! Exactly what tells me the FPR is bad! But I just replaced that!

When running, it runs PERFECTLY, no stalling, hesitation, everything is fine, no codes, EVER. And once again, once started for the day, starting it again that day is fine, just refuses to start after sitting all night. This makes no sense to me!

But SINCE I don't have a pressure gauge at the moment, lets assume the pressure is not all there, then what.
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Old 08-08-2007, 03:22 AM   #36
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Does it do the thing where it'll crank seemingly forever, but if you let go of the key, it catches and runs? Like when the starter stops using current, there'* enough to create spark from an iffy ignition system?

Could be nothing to bother with, but that'* what my car was doing before I had it all apart for like two weeks trying to figure out why I had no spark. You might recall that it was as simple as the physical contact ground between the ICM and it'* bracket. It might be worth cleaning that up, see if it helps. Especially considering that you're up in Salt Country too. Despite my car'* remaining fuel problem, I can tell that the ignition is healthier than it had been in a year at least.

In other words, until you have a gauge on there telling you for sure that it'* a fuel problem, don't discount the possibility of it being ignition.

Or hey, if you drive up here and buy my car, we can throw that gauge on at the same time!
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Old 08-08-2007, 04:29 AM   #37
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good point. ACTUALLY yes. SOMETIMES when the RPM gauge will register just over 200 rpms and goes up to about 400-500, it sputters, and sometimes has done this for almost a minute of BARELY running, just sitting there sputtering and ALMOST catching and then i can either hit the gas or just wait and let the computer sort it out, and it will ALWAYS raise up and go to idle. i don't remember a time when it has done that and then stalled. i see that as a STRONG ignition system, just because it can catch it, but then again, good point it could also be a weak one! all of my plugs and wires have dielectric grease on them, so good ign there, so i should clean up the coils and apply grease? i will get some electrical cleaner to clean up the mail ignition wires plug and coil connectors as well. worth a try! you're most likely right since it wouldn't respond to a stab of the gas when cranking which would probably signify bad spark anyways. well i will be sure to do that tomorrow and let y'all know.
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Old 08-08-2007, 05:49 AM   #38
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Well, my problem might be way off from what yours is, but if you'll recall, my problem connection was between the ICM and it'* mounting bracket, not between coils and ICM. Because of the little rubber seals on those, they were clean as day-one.

Amazing as it seems, there was just too much corrosion between that huge metal plate, and the large metal plate on the bottom of the ICM, and it wasn't electrically connected. I took some emery cloth and cleaned both surfaces, then sandwiched a little patch of coarse steel wool for good measure, and she started right up.

Again, could be waaay off, but free and worth trying.
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Old 08-08-2007, 06:18 AM   #39
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ooh, nice, some steel wool or other steel mesh like a spare ground strap would help. nice idea. and maybe some dielectric grease to just make sure it doesn't happen again.

will do. we'll see. i would be SO happy if this was the problem

also tho....

why would this explain that i can usually start it after sitting from a full off to full start immidiately, but not if i wait for the fuel pump to start priming? make sense of THAT.
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Old 08-08-2007, 01:56 PM   #40
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It doesn't explain that... But nothing else does either, that I can think of.
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