Greetings all. I was given a 90 LE C motor car. No start. 117,000 miles. Engine cranks when I got it. Would pop in intake a little while cranking. Owner said stopped running one day. Car sat for a year. I replaced fuel pump, sock and filter. No start. Found balancer hub broken, replaced it. Closely inspected CPS while there (Should have replaced it while there). Still no start. Found cracked insulation on coil underside. Replaced today. We have fire! Tries to start but still won't. Removed gas cap and cranked, tries harder to start. While cranking if I open throttle any amount, it just cranks without attempting to start. What should F/P be ater key on pump run and also during cranking?

Any help is greatly appreciated. On strict budget at moment. Need to get car running and park monte SS that has bad tranny.

42-44 psi or so without engine running. Pressure should drop approx. 1 psi for every 2" of manifold vacuum when running, usually in the mid 30#'* at slow idle.

Try new spark plugs. They could be gasoline fouled from trying to start with the bad coil pack.

Forgot to put in post. Installed correct plugs today after coil pack. Going to get F/P gauge tomorrow and check pressure. Suspect bleeding off somewhere. Is there a way to test the regulator?

Best way to test the regulator is just by pulling it'* vacuum line, and checking if it has fuel in it. That'* about the only way I have seen our regulators fail.

pull and injector plug and install a 194 bulb in the socket (bend bulb wires down).
crank engine, if no flashes your crank sensor, or ecu is bad. If it does flash, check for spark at the plugs. Could be a dirty ICM connector.

Yes I meant backfire, but backfire was due to faulty coil pack. Does not backfire any more.
I am getting fuel, just not enough to start as evidenced by when I open throttle any amount when cranking, it quits trying to start (as if lean). Tach does display relative RPM'* while cranking. I am suspecting injector probs since I found that after attempting to start, # 1 plug is very wet with fuel and all others are alomost totally white as if not getting enough fuel.
I lifted the injectors with rail and watched while son cranked. Very little spray from 2 through 6, alot of dribble from # 1.
I am in San Antonio, TX.
Retired GM tech from Gunn Pont. Be amazed at how much you forget when you change occupations.

If your tach doesn't work when cranking, the car doesn't have spark. It'* something wrong with the crank sensor, icm, or associated wiring. the cam sensor doesn't effect that, coils won't do it, but they could cause no spark.

As I stated, tach is working, I now have fire. It no longer backfires when attempting to start. It is an over lean condition. I replaced the leaking # 1 injector this morning. Same status. Comes close to starting, just not quite enough fule to start. I am going to try choking the intake air a little after work today. Also decided to check vacuum during cranking. I will spin up to 900 RPM'* when trying to start. It want'* to, just now enough fuel. I figured replacing the leaking injector would cure this.