If you found the balancer hub broken, are you shure it didn't damage the CPS?
Doing the injector signal test will verify proper CPS signal.

I installed a new ECM today. Still tries to start but won't. I will try the light bulb trick on the injector connections today. I did not see any marks on the CPS when I looked at it with magnifying glass while I had the balancer off. What about the cam position sensor? I recall when working at Pontiac dealership replaceing missing magnet in cam gear on one car but if memory serves, it would not fire at all.

Don't know if I'm too late to be of any help but.....since you believe it is a lean problem...

Could a faulty coolant temperature sensor be telling the computer that the engine is warm when it is not, and therefore not provide sufficient fuel?

Just a thought. There are tables somewhere that give resistance-temperature values for the intake air sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. These should be within 5 degrees of each other, I think. If you have a scan tool, you can read the temps right off it.

don't know if you mentioned it but also try removing the ICM plug connector, clean ond tighten up on the sockets. Put it on and off a couple times then apply dielectric grease to the connectors.

Ok. Goint to work on it some more this weekend. My Monte SS lost oil pressure so now I have to get the Bonne running. I have cleaned the ICM connector and checked the pins. One thought, the faulty coil pack was cracked on the botton and arcing to the ICM mount. The ICM (Sealant?) has melted somewhat and ran down the sides.
Let'* go over what has been done and the current symptoms.
1: The car sat for a year with no fuel. The owner added fuel and went to move it and it would not start, gave it to me.
2: I checked it and found NO fuel pressure, replaced the pump and sock. Filter had been recently replaced. Also checked fuel lines while I had the tank out. Results, no start and would only pop in the intake every once in a while when cranking.
3: Surmised incorrect ignition timing. Found broken hub on balancer and sheared key. Replaced them. Looked at CPS with magnifying glass, saw now marks on it from broken balancer. Results, same as before.
4: Found cracked coil pack arcing to ground. Replaced it. Results, now attempts to start. RPM'* go to about 600 to 800 while trying to start. No longer pops in intake. Just wont won't complete start cycle. If I open the throttle any amount while cranking, it no longer tries to start. Had my son crank while I choked it slightly at the T/B, made no difference. Plugged vacuum accessories to check if it was gatting too much air from vacuum leak, no dice.
5: Took a chance and bought reman'ed ECU. Same symptoms.
I am going to do the light bulb test on the injectors this weekend and F/P test if I can find a gauge.

Thanks for the help. I really need it right now as money is exceptionally tight until Febuary and getting this car going is top priority.

This could be the problem (or part of it). A year is long enough for gasoline residue to form varnish in the injectors and cut off or minimize the flow of fuel. I saw a post where willwren talked about pulling the fuel rail up with the injectors connected and wired and placing a large pan underneath, then cranking to see what you get. You see flow and pattern for each injector that way.

I'll check to see if you need more info.

I think we're on the right track here. Sat for too long with no fuel, old car.....bad fuel and more may be the issue. I'd like to see you remove the fuel rail, then remove the FPR from it. Soak all 6 injectors overnight in injector cleaner, and flush out the fuel rail thoroughly with gasoline (you're going to smell GREAT). Gently disassemble the FPR as well and do the same. I suspect debris in the rail or too much moisture. Everything else says FIRE.

When you soak the injectors, make sure they're upside-down.

I'll start the injectors, FPR and rail soak tonight so that Saturday they should be good and clean.