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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-11-2006, 09:13 PM   #41
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Possibly contributing to the problems is bad gas. After all, the car did sit for a while?

Blowing brake lines? Better replace them all. I always thought that if some brake lines blow, it'* best to replace them all, along with the fuel lines. You never know when you'll need the brakes, and they won't be there!

Definitly replace all 6 plugs. I used NGK Tr55 copper plugs, and they are good plugs!!

I had a similar hesitation problem a long while back. Especially when the fuel level was down. The tank was leaking, so I decided to drop it in summer of 05. The fuel pump has an attached nylon looking strainer filter, and holy cow, it was clogged! New fuel lines, brake lines, the strainer replaced, new fuel filter, tank, etc, and I have never had an acceleration problem again!!
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Old 11-12-2006, 03:31 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
dammit.... those were the plugs I used. Were they at least for that motor? They're going to cut it. If not, i'll have to mixmatch TR55s and RL45s.

I keep blowing brake lines! Damn rusty pieces of junk! /end rant

DS: you wouldn't still happen to have that ECU would ya?
those plugs are for A 3800, but not originally from that one. theyre complete garbage the engine ran like **** with them and missed at idle/takeoff with them.

and yes i have an extra ecm
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Old 11-12-2006, 03:45 AM   #43
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Alright, that is pretty similar to what i'm experiencing. Idle is smooth but doesn't sound right at all, at the exhaust.

tard: MI doesn't have inspections. I do now have full exhaust [gutted cat], which made a significant difference with the hesitation off idle, but it'* still there. My guess is the less backpressure wasn't the root problem; just made it worse. I've got 5 good R45LTS6s... so I'll just have to buy one of them [that'* so crappy when you think about it].
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Old 11-13-2006, 02:01 AM   #44
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No inspections here either, but I check my spark plugs anyway.
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:59 PM   #45
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Been driving the car for a bit now. Put on 5 TR55s and one R45... i know the heat ranges don't match, but it'* what I've got. I don't have 6 of any plugs. But the corsy has R44.... anyone know if thats one heat range up or down?

We did a trans fluid change... turns out our flushing machine is down, so it was just a pan drop... along with some lucas.

So now this has rid my studder, so off idle the car runs fine. However, here'* the problem. There is no timing advance... the knock sensor is kicking on, and I max out timing at 25*. When I first fire up the car, about 5 sec the knock sensor doesn't kick on, and I see 34* adv for a split second when putting the car in gear or sometimes right when it fires up. I'm not sure exactly what kind of power I should be seeing, but this is like crappy 3.1 corsica fast... which I would really hope is much faster.

Now, I know why there doesn't seem to be much power, but now I need to figure out why. There is a noise... a very disturbing noise that comes from the motor. It sounds exactly like brake noise... but it'* not. I just now got it to reproduce with car in park just tapping the throttle and on decel it'll make the noise. I really want to say it sounds like the beginning sound of wear indicators hitting the rotor... but it'* a bit quieter than that. But when driving down the road it'* very prodominate with windows cracked. Also one time it was making the noise for a bit longer than it usually does, and when I took off [gramma btw] the car shuddered about three jerks. Nothing major, really had to be paying a lot of attention to feel it... but that was the only time. I pulled the oil fill cap and it wasn't valvetrain noise... and it'* definitely coming moreso from the driver'* side... any ideas? BTW, this noise doesn't happen all the time, only on decel [totally off throttle] and if the noise is there on decel, if I hit the brakes the noise is solid and no louder... otherwise it'll start for a few sec then stop usually. That'* why i thought it was in the brakes

Last thing.... my fuel gauge is just past the yellow crosshatched... you know when your car should be saying hey ******* put some gas in me... but the low fuel light didn't come on on the DIC. And the fuel gauge kinda seems to move around quite a bit. Like acceptable movements around corners and whatnot. It'* been a very, very long time since I have had a fuel gauge... so it could be that I am just not used to it. But, the low fuel light worked last week when I first drove the car. Here'* the last kicker... I filled up with 3/4 tank, and drove 140mi only pushing the car maybe 4 or 5 times... grammaing the rest of the time... but I have a QDM code, and TCC code [but TCC works]. And scantool says car stays at steady 14.8 AFR, with no leaky FPR, no leaky injectors and 48PSI ign off.... and we kept it on there for 30min with not a single drop in pressure. So there is no fuel leak.
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