Engine Swap - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-22-2006, 11:22 PM   #11
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lol bastard... crazy bastard

88 was the first year for a balance shaft, and yes mine has one.
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Old 09-23-2006, 02:55 AM   #12
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so yea i have that ecm if u need it.

have fun with that engine swap i sure know i had fun, till the frame fell on my knee when i was puttin it in.


oh and fyi, the heater hoses are gonna give u so much trouble its not even funny.
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Old 09-23-2006, 12:38 PM   #13
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Jr: you said the 90 FI harness had an extra pin... does that mean I should use the 90'* harness with 89 FI harness or the entire 89 harness?

We are having a lot of problems with a friend'* town car with wiring harnesses, and his car is pretty much junk because we can't find the right harness, and I don't want my car to end up like his.
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Old 09-23-2006, 01:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothy'* Buick
What year engines got the Balance shaft? Wasn't it 89 and onwards? I'd say your engine came with one OSG?
All 3800'* from 88 to current have a Balance shaft..

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Old 09-23-2006, 01:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
Jr: you said the 90 FI harness had an extra pin... does that mean I should use the 90'* harness with 89 FI harness or the entire 89 harness?

We are having a lot of problems with a friend'* town car with wiring harnesses, and his car is pretty much junk because we can't find the right harness, and I don't want my car to end up like his.
What I am saying is that I am not sure when the change occoured...

The 89 Harness should be a Pin short of the 91, but the change may have been made in 90... Its an easy swap out.. But if you harness is complete just use it and plug the FI pigtails onto the 90 motor... It will all function fine

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Old 09-23-2006, 01:27 PM   #16
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Alright. I figured everything would go smooth, it'* those damn ford products that suck balls and are a PITA to work on. Ford ruins it for everyone.

The best part about it is, I could not do anything in auto for the rest of the semester and pass with an A because i'm doing this engine... and everything I have to do to get it running is basically what I'm required to do for the semester. This must be my week or something.
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:18 PM   #17
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Quoted from me, "This must be my week or something." Well that definitely wasn't true last week, however this week may be making up for it. Today after school the shop finally opened, so I stayed after with a friend and pulled the b'ville in. We got started on it, but only pulled some basic stuff... we only stayed for about an hour. However, that means tomorrow during class I can get everyone together [4-5 people, with 3-4 actually working and that know what they're doing]. So it should go quick.

Here'* where we already ran into some problems. My teacher [an old school RWD racer], wants me to pull the engine/trans from the top. But I want to drop the subframe. He thinks it'll be easier going up than down. However what I have is essentially a complete front end [from hubs to power steering pump] including subframe. But the subframe is bent, so i'm not using it. But I think it would be much easier to have both subframes sitting next to each other then swap engine and trans to the orig subframe IMO would be easier, then having to line up the mounts and **** later from the top of the car. Also remember I have a full shop at my disposal, including lifts, cherry pickers, trans jacks, etc... not like i'm sitting in my driveway with some jackstands and a screwdriver. Which would be easier [and more importantly, faster]
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:04 PM   #18
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If I understand what you're saying, the "new" engine is complete with transmission sitting in a bent subframe you're not going to use? If this is what you have, do the swap out the top of your car.
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:20 PM   #19
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Yeah, that'* what i've got. But everytime you put a new engine in you have to dick around with lining up the motor mounts and all that crap, but if the subframe is sitting out of the car, it would make it so much easier to mount in the cradle. Then I also wouldn't have to worry about clearance issues, like all you ABS 88-91 guys look at your TEVES brake assembly, and look how far it extends past the engine/trans. Yeah I have the rad out which is flush with that top metal piece [the thing the plastic rad cover mounts to], but the condensor is right there, so that will in all likelihood get banged up [original working r-12, which works great] trying to avoid that booster, which would be about an extra inch of clearance between the two. And also remember we are a bunch of kids, with nobody with engine pulling experience... at least the ones working on my car [our class is separated into two groups socially... we don't talk to the 'other' guys].

But do you really think it'd be faster taking it out the top?
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Old 10-03-2006, 12:34 PM   #20
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Your subframe is probably rust-welded to the body. Getting those bolts off might be a bit of a hassle. I would assume that dropping the subframe would make sense becuse thats how the car was assembled, but I have heard that its not as easy as it sounds.
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