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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-04-2006, 11:30 PM   #21
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Thought I'd throw a quick update for you guys. So far everything is removed and disconnected from the engine, and the subframe just needs to be unbolted [along with strut towers]. We soaked all the cradle bolts in PB, which will be about 24hrs by tomorrow. Hopefully it won't give us too much hassle. And if not, the way it looks right now, we could very well have the new motor bolted in with minimal work required by the end of the day tomorrow. We'll see how it goes, and cross our fingers we don't run into any problems.
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Old 10-04-2006, 11:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
Thought I'd throw a quick update for you guys. So far everything is removed and disconnected from the engine, and the subframe just needs to be unbolted [along with strut towers]. We soaked all the cradle bolts in PB, which will be about 24hrs by tomorrow. Hopefully it won't give us too much hassle. And if not, the way it looks right now, we could very well have the new motor bolted in with minimal work required by the end of the day tomorrow. We'll see how it goes, and cross our fingers we don't run into any problems.
dont tell me youre using the frame that i gave you........
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Old 10-05-2006, 12:00 AM   #23
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FWIW, I've pulled them out the top and the bottom and either way seems like its about the same amount of work. If you're worried about clearance issues out the top, then pull the engine, then the tranny seperately. Then you should have PLENTY of room to pull them out without hitting things.

I don't especially like pulling them out of the bottom due to balljoints (which I guess you can avoid by unbolting the whole strut) and I've had issues with the subframe bolts before, and repairing the "frame" that the subframe bolts to is not fun. You also have to disconnect the steering rack either from the cradle and suspend it up with something, or disconnect it from the column. Pulling it out the top prevents this as well. Realistically the car will need an alignment if you pull it out the bottom becuase once you pull the cradle out, when you bolt it back in it probably won't be in the same exact spot throwing your alignment off. So pulling it out of the top would avoid this. To me, I have access to an alignment rack and like to throw my car up on the rack once or twice a year anyways, so its not a big deal, but if you don't have access to a rack, then you're looking at spending at least $50+ to get it done.

Since you have a good subframe in the car now, and the other engine is on the bad one, then I'd pull it out the top and do it that way. Just my $.02.

Good luck no matter how you end up doing it though.
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Old 10-05-2006, 07:31 PM   #24
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We pulled it out the bottom with no problems. The bolts didn't give us any problems. However the compressor kicked our ***, then the motor mounts gave us some trouble, then the cv joints, then ball joints and tie rod ends.. but all in all we got the motor dropped, motor and trans removed from cradle, cv joints out [which the driver'* side one was rusted to the hub, and a big *** hammer couldn't get it out, air chisel couldn't get it out, finally we had to heat it up then air chisel it... hammering it still wouldn't cut it]. That thing was on there good. Basically everything gave us problems except the cradle. We now just have to unbolt the new engine/trans and transfer it to the old cradle.

We already took the hub off and bolted the struts back into the strut tower and separated it at the balljoints. That way we don't have to deal with that crap when transfering the new motor or when putting the cradle back in the car.

Really all that'* left is transfering the motor and trans and bolting everything back up. But I'm sure it'll be a lot harder than it sounds. I give it another two class periods [6hrs] before it'* 100% done. We're also going to hook the old motor up to our start cart [already equipped with ECU to run S2s in open loop], put on a new timing chain, used from the corsica, and run it on 4 cyl and run WOT until it blows something else... oh yeah and also without oil or coolant. Something is going to go boom!

DS: No, I will be using my cradle.
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Old 10-06-2006, 12:51 PM   #25
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No Offense to you at all Justin, But I think you guys are really doing this the hard way...

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Old 10-06-2006, 01:23 PM   #26
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Yeah, I realized that after we got the subframe off. Oh well, lesson learned it'* easier to pull the engine out the top. But it'* too late now, and the hard part is done IMO, and the rest should be a helluva lot easier. The benefits of dropping the subframe were easy motor transfer, and the hard parts included having to deal with the hub and struts, well the hub and struts are dealt with and mounted back up, so all that is left is bolting the balljoints back in, and the motor hasn't been transferred yet. In the end, it will still give me the result, in I get ol' pearl back.
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Old 10-08-2006, 11:43 PM   #27
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Yeah, those rear subframe bolts can be a PIA if the retainer for the nut breaks off. The only solution is to cut a hole in the floor, and use a pair of vise grips, and then use the impact to get that bolt back in.
I also welded that nut down too, in case i need to remove it again. not real smart, since if i put a new subframe in, it may not line up with the nut, lol.

When I did my motor, i pulled it out from the top, and it was relatively easy. I had friends help me remove it, and i put it in myself. It was easy, since i was in the shop, had a hoist, and whatnot. Of course, the tranny was fine then, so, its different from your situation, haha.
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Old 10-19-2006, 06:37 PM   #28
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Quick update for you guys. The motor is in, and ready to go. I just have to hook up the PS lines and trans lines and route the wiring. The suspension stuff isn't hooked up. We had to pull the struts out, because it would have been a bit more difficult to slide the cradle in.

However, the real reason of all the delays is shop overload, and we had to get a lot of other cars out first, so mine went on the back burner. Then yesterday I just bought an 89 caddy fleetwood... what a beast. And she needs some work too, so although I may have only a few hours of work left to do, it may still be a week before she'* done. And it doesn't really matter anyways, because i'm going to be driving the caddy during the winter and parking the b'ville till spring. I know for a fact, that although the b'ville is a great winter car, that caddy will be even better. 5,000lb FWD V-8 will take some snow.. not to mention that if I do hit something it won't matter, because it'* already not that pretty and whatever I do hit, i'm sure it'll do more damage to it than me. And it was $300.

Anyone want a corsica? $200 and it'* got gas in it... so that'* got to be worth something.
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Old 10-22-2006, 12:11 AM   #29
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I suppose that caddy has a 4.5? You should stick a 4.9 in your bonne!
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:50 AM   #30
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good job OSG maybe I will get my car running. But making 7.25 is not cutting. And my 84 Electra wagon is taking all my money now.
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