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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-18-2007, 07:56 PM   #21
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Nothing wrong with the mountain, I used to work there once, it'* just a bit further that'* all.

I forgot to mention the 34mm socket, and added it to the list.
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Old 04-19-2007, 07:32 AM   #22
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Yeppers Ill get that 34 mm, thanks
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Old 04-21-2007, 03:48 PM   #23
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Well fellows , I opened er up had too much trouble with the axle nut never went farther to get it off, looked at the castle nut said that will take anither hour and that is just the beginning so I closed her back up and said I will enjoy the 70 degree weather instead of spending the whole day on the shaft.when the joint gets bad Ill take it in where they have the proper tools .Thanks for the input fellas.Sorry Frank I knew you were there for me but ive learned when everything starts off fighting ya, its going to be a long day or 2.So I fixed the leaking tire and changed a brake light bulb on the 00 and now Im sipping a beer in the yard.Thanks again.
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Old 04-22-2007, 08:56 PM   #24
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Did run into 2 different problems, one being the axle nut and the second the lower ball joint castle nut? If so can you give us more detalis as to what problems you ran into? What side were you working on and how long do you think to cv joints on there will last?


Sorry to read you ran into problems
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Old 04-23-2007, 08:12 PM   #25
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Ya the axle nut I couldnt budge, I spent 10 min on it and I looked at the castle nut and said when I finally get this axle nut off, the castle nut looks like it will be worse.I went thru this with the wheel bearing before and strut mount , took a full day into the night.Cv joint is now pooched, making noise.I saw buddy at speedy around the corner he said he will do it for cash $60 next day off (wed).That is worth the trouble for me.
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Old 04-24-2007, 10:07 AM   #26
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Just a suggestion................put some PB Blaster (penetrating oil) on the threads every day and let them soak in. Now as for the $60.00 that'* actually a good price to keep your sanity in tact. What did they end up charging you for the remanfactured CV axle? Also which side are you changing? Sorry for asking to many questions but curiousity go tthe better of me and I always learn more that way. When you tried to remove the axle nut what were you using, eg. i/2" ratchet, power bar,
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Old 04-24-2007, 08:33 PM   #27
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I used liquid wrench, shaft after my return wil be $85 (steep), replacing driver side and yes I was using 1/2 heavy ratchet and a pipe.I know I would eventually get axle nut off but the castle nut was pretty rusty and old grease,also if I had more problems I would be stuck in driveway.Not worth the $60.I really like to do all work myself if possible, this one ill let go.Also I thought axle nut was 34mm,the 36mm fit 34 did not.I know my 2000 is 34mm
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Old 04-24-2007, 08:41 PM   #28
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Man oh man even with a bar on the ratchet it still didn't want to come off? Now that'* tight. On the 95 it was 34mm. but I guess on the 90'* its 36mm, good to know. I agree, I try to do as much as I can myself also, but by the sounds of it, you maybe better off paying the $60.00.

Let us know how you make out.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:53 AM   #29
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I would go ahead and replace both sides while you have it in the shop. Unless you know it has been done recently, the passenger side is probably on its way out too.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bastard
I would go ahead and replace both sides while you have it in the shop. Unless you know it has been done recently, the passenger side is probably on its way out too.
why would the other side be on it'* way out?
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