car will only start in-- problem found. 4/18/08 - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-18-2008, 09:42 PM   #11
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somebody lap the $h!t outta me please...... i deserve it..


well today was 80 outside so i decided to change the neutral safety switch and the first thing i did was remove the entire battery and put it aside.. so something told me while i had the battery out to check the positive cables under the rubber boots as last summer i had a major corrosion issue that caused some serious stalling problems..

so when i pulled the boots off i was totally blown away at what i seen...
the metal ring that screws to the battery from both positive cables was so bad it was started to eat away the meta connectors that go to the battery..

so i immediatly stopped what i was doing and went to the audio section in my garage and i cut some 4 ga and some 8 ga power and ground wire off the rolls i have and i took some 24kt gold plated battery terminals and made some new power wires for my car..

i made the one that goes to the lil red box on top of the fire wall by the wipers first and replaced it then i made the positive power wire that is double ( 8 ga and 4 ga ) wire for the alternator and the starter, then i took out the old one and ran the new wires i made for this the same way as the old one i took out..

so now that everything was rewired with new positive battery cables to everything on the car i decided to reconnect the battery and give it a shot..




it started right up and up and up and up every single time i tried...

and my voltage has always been at 12.65 volts but now actually goes up to 13.43 volts and stays there...

wow i never thought all that corrosion could accumulate in less then a year ,, i had that spot less like new last summer and today i found them worst than i ever saw them as long as i owned the car...


so hopefully that was the issue because i never replaced the neutral safety switch as i figured the corrosion was the issue.. it was so bad i could not even jump start the car most of the time..... i figured i would wait a lil while and see if the problem is gone and then return the neutral safety switch and get my $80 back and use that for a tune up...


dont slap me to hard now....
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:48 PM   #12
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:P Glad you found it :P
I'm sure most of us assumed the engine was cranking when you said "but when i switch to neutral it starts in about 3-5 minutes of trying to start her up"
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:51 PM   #13
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make sure to coat the new connections with di-electric grease.

12.6 is typically just battery voltage, and 13.4 is a tad low. should be slightly above 14. take a meter directly to the alternator output, to make sure it is putting out proper voltage.

p.*. what did the 5 fingers say to the face?
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Old 04-19-2008, 01:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samueljackson
make sure to coat the new connections with di-electric grease.

12.6 is typically just battery voltage, and 13.4 is a tad low. should be slightly above 14. take a meter directly to the alternator output, to make sure it is putting out proper voltage.

p.*. what did the 5 fingers say to the face?




and how do i test the alt with my multi meter.?

i dont even get 14. anything in my 95... and i never had a electrical issue and i have an 140 amp alt and a 1000 cca 950 ca yellow top.. no corrision on any wires in the 95 either...
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Old 04-19-2008, 11:21 AM   #15
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the post that has the 13mm nut on it and the cable that goes right to the battery, is the alternator output. if you test directly on that, you know exactly what the alt is putting out. once that is good, check voltage at the battery. if you have a lower voltage at the battery, then replace your cable from the alt to the battery. 8ga is fine. You can use 4ga if you want.

you want to test for charging voltage when at idle with nothing on. then again with every draw possible. (excluding subs). lets just see the stock loads on the charging system.
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Old 04-19-2008, 11:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samueljackson
the post that has the 13mm nut on it and the cable that goes right to the battery, is the alternator output. if you test directly on that, you know exactly what the alt is putting out. once that is good, check voltage at the battery. if you have a lower voltage at the battery, then replace your cable from the alt to the battery. 8ga is fine. You can use 4ga if you want.

you want to test for charging voltage when at idle with nothing on. then again with every draw possible. (excluding subs). lets just see the stock loads on the charging system.

o.k i will check this today when i get back from the sesame street show im going to today at 2 pm.. dont be jealous..

and i just replaced every single battery cable with oxygen free solid copper wiring that i had.. the main wires are 4 gauge and the wire to the alternator i made is 8 gauge..

and the battery is new and i have no more subs in the 88.. the music was transfered to the 95..
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