So, the tranny in my wife'* 1995 Olds 88 with the 3.8 motor, gave up the ghost. Leading up to the day that it happened, 2-3 times a week we would have to rev the engine for 30-60 seconds when dropping it into drive, just to get the tranny to engage. Then on the morning it went out, it engaged perfectly, then 1/4 mile from home, tranny just flat out went out. Would not engage in any any gears. Pulled it back home drained, pulled the pan and found large pieces of plastic and large pieces of flat metal. To say the least, went to a local junkyard and picked up a tranny that had a Goodwrench Master Mechanic sticker on it, but he didn't have a torque converter. There'* the basics, now to my questions.
1st, mechanic called yesterday and told me that he thinks that the junkyard tranny is messed up because he cannot manually turn the linkage. I know this thing has an interlock (if I'm stating it correctly). So, can the linkage be manually turned; and if not, is there a way to check the linkage prior to installation?
2nd, he also informed me that the transmission shaft was snapped at the torque converter, and that he believes that the tc internals locked up and caused this, as well as the internal damage. Does this sound plausible?

I guess, ultimately, I need to know if I need to find another tranny and tc. All help with this will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tim

My first thoughts are, how can he determine if anything has happened without opening the transmission? You can't see much if you drop the bottom pan. If you ONLY pull the side pan, again, not much to see, but you can actually now grab onto the output shaft and spin it.

As many times I have opened up the 4T60-E(which is the same as yours) the only thing I can think of that would lock the shift linkage would be the differential causing torque lock onto the parking pawl. But this only happens if you park on an incline.

If the mechanic is correct in assuming something FUBAR'd itself in the trans, especially in the differential area, then I can see the shift actuator not moving.

The best way to check the linkage is to remove the passenger side differential cover and look at the diff and parking pawl. If you are doing this, I can provide images etc from the ATSG manual. Otherwise, feel free to peruse my first transmission nightmare...

https://www.gmforum.com/general-gm-c...pdated-239395/

And then on page 4 here, I found the reason why my transmission quit.

https://www.gmforum.com/1992-1999-91...-238747/page4/

Mike, Thanks a bunch, and great pics. I've decided that I'm gonna eat the core charge and just spend some time going through the old tranny to see if this old dog can still learn a few tricks.
Thought about the shift linkage all day yesterday, and distinctly remember turning it when I picked it up at the junkyard. So, in trying to figure out what may have happened to it between then and now, came up with a couple additional questions.
If the tranny was dropped onto the linkage, or if something heavy was dropped onto it. could the linkage rod get bent enough to keep it from turning; or jam the parking pawl?

Also, concerning the torque converter... Discovered that there are 3 different TCs, does the tranny have any markings identifying which TC matches up to it?

You know, the only reason trans shops charge an arm and 3 legs for a rebuild is because of the intense labor in just REMOVING the trans. Considering you already have it out, you already saved 15% on your car insurance. I mean, LOL, a whole bunch from the trans shop.

If it was bent that bad to the point of not being able to turn it, it would be VERY evident just by looking at it.

3 different trans? I see only 2 listed for the 1995 3800. 1897 stall and 1420.

On the backside of the trans, you will see a metal tag on it. Find the bold numbers that say something like...5BLW, or 5ASW or 5YMW. It MIGHT start with a 4 or 6 instead.

ive done that before, i had a jeep trans that needed rebuilt and it was maybe 60% of the normal cat to get it rebuilt. and they had the popular transmissions already done you swap and you are on your way. rebuilds are way better than used because the transmissions weren't that good to begin with and the jy one could go next week. the rebuilt ones have all the updates and normally a warranty.

Sorry guys, for some reason, stopped receiving email notifications of thread responses.
Turned out that the linkage rod had just corroded to the linkage rod seal, mechanic freed it up and with a new seal, linkage worked perfectly.
Parts houses listed GM64, GM71, and GM71cw, as exact match torque converters. Tag on original TC was FY9B, which matched GM64. Bought new TC, and mechanic was then able to install tranny.

Would have definitely preferred a rebuilt tranny, but trying to cut a few corners due to limited income (bad back and still battling for disability). Of course, now with the labor costs for the mechanic yanking and installing twice, I would have been better off forking out the dough for the rebuilt.

Now another problem, that I will approach in a new thread.