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Old 02-16-2011, 04:44 PM   #31
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Im in Florida actually. Funny tho, as the truck came from Chicago. I got a few questions as I'm getting into this job today.

Towards the front of the truck, where it comes off the master cylinder, it comes down and I think its a compression fitting, then more pipe which runs down the frame which goes to the back near the rear axle. I got the line taken off the compression fitting and loose from the plastic rails half way back until it joins with the fuel lines. How does the brake line come out of the plastic part that is holding it together with the fuel lines? I pulled up on one of the fuel lines and it popped out of the plastic holder, so Im assuming the brake line is held in the same way. I pulled and pulled but it didn't budge, should i pull harder?

Also, the main obstacle in my way of getting the brake line out is the area where it connects near the rear axle. its the part where it transitions from the steel line to the rubber line and then splits off to both back wheels via steel lines again. The brake lines are good after it connects to the rubber lines. The problem is, I can't get the steel line to dissconnect from the rubber one. This line goes through the frame. I tried a 14 mm which somewhat fits but when I turn it it loosens then stops. I try going the other way.. it loosens.. then stops. how does it comes off?

I got all the tools and line that I needed today. I'm gonna do the fuel lines last. I'm going to sand the fuel lines and see how deep the corrosion is.
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:20 PM   #32
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you have to grab a hold of the other side from the metal line before the rubber with some big vise grips or pliers to stop it from turning. i usually cut the metal line off with a saw and get on the fitting with a six point shallow socket.
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:48 PM   #33
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Sweet. That worked! I got the line out. It was easy to remove, but only because the line broke in half where it was corroded so bad. It would have been easier if the line wasn't routed on the INSIDE of the bolts that hold the truck to the frame. Now when I replace the line, could I go with 2 peices to make it easier to install.. or should I run with 1 long peice like it already was? if I should use 1 long peice, is it really possible to jam it up in there? Also layers of the steel was actually bubbling up and peeling off.

Same with the fuel lines. You think I should still replace them with them being damaged so bad?

Looks like I just need the lines from the quick dis-connects all the way to wherever they go. Where could I find those?

Thanks for all the help man. You have no idea how much time you have already saved me lol.
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:47 AM   #34
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wow. bending the line was really a PITA. I don't think I got it right, but i guess i will find out when I install it in the morning.

Question I have about flaring the line. the kit I got is a double flare kit. I took a piece of spare line "paid $1 a foot :( " and did both a double flare and a single flare. I notied if I didnt tighten down the flare gripper thing that the pipe would just slide through it. So I tighten it decently and it left little gouges on the steel. Is this normal? Do you usually sand it smooth when done flaring?

Also, i don't see a difference when i do a single flare or a double flare. Which size adapter should I use for the tubing? Im currently using a 6mm adapter for the double flare. Would I be alright with just a single flare? ugh.. so confusing lol.
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:15 AM   #35
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Figured it all out. Double flare prevents the flare from cracking "added durability". I made a few nice flares, so Im excited for tomorrow. Still worried about being able to find some gas lines.
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:26 AM   #36
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double flares are always used on cars.

you have to some times differ from the factory when replacing the lines because they put them on sometimes when there was no body on or whatever is easy for them. just remember the car is vibrating and you want to secure it good so it wound chafe through at any point. and keep the unions to a minimum just because you dont need to take chances on additional points of failure.

the flare tool has to be reefed down or it wont get a good bite on the tube. the only time you would have to worry about it is if the fitting wont slide easily back over it to the flare.

as far as the fuel lines go, i try to be proactive, i dont want to be stuck beside the road in the cold waiting for a truck or worse many miles from home and be at the mercy of some mechanic. especially if you saw it was questionable and didnt do anything.
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:43 PM   #37
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You are better man than me, congrats on installing the pipe raw. I bought mine with the ends already on, which caused me to have five extra inches to find a place to hide.

On the fuel pipe, I suggest you take a break and hed to Wal-Mart auto and find the rust nutralizer product. It may save you from sanding down the old pipe and if what they say is accurate, the rust actually helps retain pipe strength. I used it and it did me well.

Finally, there is a guy in Florida that only deals in S10 and related vehicles (used parts). He buys the entire vehicle and strips them. I bought fuel lines from him, but ended up not using them as the rust restorer worked good. He sells through Ebay. He may be close to you and may be a additional resource for parts as any Bravada from Chicago is going to have major corrossion underneath (poor selection of material by GM).
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:41 PM   #38
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I appreciate all of the responses! And yea, the bottom of this truck is like no other I have seen before. Definetely a rust magnet. I just woke up... will be trying to finish the job soon. i will also head to walmart and look for this rust nuatralizer. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 02-17-2011, 07:39 PM   #39
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Got the line installed today and flared.

2 things that would have made this job VERY simple is keeping the tubing straight before install and flaring the tubing BEFORE installing the line. However, doing it this way you would have to have the line almost perfect in length or you will have to do it my way. If I would have kept the line straight, without trying to copy the factory line, it would have slid right in. I could have hand bent the tubing "carefully not to kink" to form around only 2 spots that need the bending. Would have taken me maybe 30 mins to install vs the 1 1/2 hours it took me.

Id have to say Im very impressed with flare'* as this was the first time I ever worked with them. It amazes me how metal can seal vs metal the way it does. I'm guessing it has alot to do with the soft steel. Anyway, the flare I created weren't the best because I did them with the line installed, and wow was it a pita. The flare didn't have the best lip on them, but it seemed good enough to me to make a seal. i tightened everything up, added fluid, and started her up. Pumped the brakes about 60 times and then held it and seen no leaking coming from either of my flares. There was also a little bit of force on the tubing making it look akward when going into the flare nut. Like the tube was slightly bent. However, it seems to be holding without leaking.

From what I explained, what are the chances that my flares fail if they haven't so far? i was honestly scared that when I started her up and pumped the brakes... it would squirt from outside the flare nut or something. The lines are tight and don't wiggle on either end of the flare... but like I said.. I just feel like the flares weren't the "best" and the line was slightly bent when going through the flare.

Tomorrow I plan on bending the line by hand and clipping it in on the frame where the original line ran.. I'll also duct tape the line anywhere that i think it might touch metal. duct tapes life span is life forever... so i think that will be sufficient for parts of the line that might touch in the future.
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:03 AM   #40
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alrighty.. well thanks for all the replys!
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