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Old 02-11-2011, 06:49 PM   #21
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the local car quest affiliate in town had coils of line and drawers of fittings. I took the ones i needed down and matched them up. they used several different types of quick fuel lines. if its the one like on my monte he had that too. took mine down and he made me one with the right ends on it. do you have a picture you could post?
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:02 PM   #22
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I dont have any pictures atm, but I have a camera for the future. I don't think I could really get any pictures because I don't have anything tore apart yet.

I guess my main question would be.. how much do you think it will cost to replace both fuel and brake lines from 1/4th way from the front all the way back to the rear wheels of a bravada if I buy the parts and do the labor.

Im trying to weigh my options. If I can manage doing this job myself, I could potentially save $300. It doesn't seem to hard. Hopefully the OP reads this as I think he should know everything there is to know about the bravada.

I appreciate all advice
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:31 PM   #23
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I cant help you with the fuel line cause i dont know which one you have hopefully somebody else will, as far as the brake lines like i said i got the tool, line, and fittings for less than 100.

if you could fill out your sig then in the future people will be able to help you better if they know what you got
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:49 PM   #24
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Thanks for that information. Its my mothers vehicle. I'm just trying to get her up running again.

I'll fill out the info when I get a chance.

Thanks again!
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:19 AM   #25
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"Recently brake fluid started leaking from the driver side middle of the vehicle obviously being the rear brake line. Where the harness holds botht he fuel lines and brake lines, the corrosion is intense. The fuel lines aren't leaking, but i'm assuming they will start leaking very soon.

I see that there is a union at the front of the vehile and a union at the rear of the axle where it T'* off to the rear wheels. Also, i see there are quick connects for the fuels lines so the job doesn't seem to be to painful, besides where they are located on the frame and the amount of rust on the gas tank bolts/unions. The lines after the unions are good.

Can you guys offer me advice on doing this job right and also where to locate all of the tubing required for both the fuel/brake components."

I have done the exact work you are asking about.

AutoZone sells copper/nickel brake pipe. Unless you are an expert in bending pipe, I think the copper/nickel pipe is the only way to go because it is so much easier to bend. I forgot the lengths, but you will be purchasing at least three different lengths. The challenge is one connection happens to occur along the frame near the fuel tank and requires a lot of patience.

To accomplish this takes a lot of time and a delicate hand. I did not replace my fuel lines, instead I cleaned them and put a rust stopper on them sold at Wal-mart automotive.

If the quote you received for $350 included parts and labor for both fuel and brake lines, it is a good price if the mechanic does solid work. If he rigs it (doesn't follow path of old brake pipe) then it might not be so good.
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:16 AM   #26
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Yea he said he was going to leave the old line in place and just put another one in. From the looks of the gas lines, they are going to start leaking quite soon. From what I read, that rust stopper only slows down the rust and I also heard there is no way to "stop" rust once it has started. I'd hate for moms to be driving down the road and one of those lines bust. I figured I'd be better off just replacing them all if I'm going to do it.

Any pics of the job you did to replace the brake line? I'd rather do this myself and save the money. I got plenty of tools ect. Any tips on where the brake line is bolted on this frame? Easiest way to remove it?

Should I remove the gas tank?
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:21 AM   #27
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Also.. what causes the gas gauges on these trucks bug out and flip around? Sometimes it works.. sometimes it doesnt. I plan on taking the tank out while I'm doing this job if need be. Did you remove the tank when you did your truck?

Thanks for all replys. Im going to attempt this.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:09 AM   #28
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I got a friend who has one of these, hes replaced damn near everything on the thing, but that thing will get through anything we've found out lol its a nice truck but you arent kidding when they come with alot of problems.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:28 AM   #29
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usually the ground wire for the sending unit gets corroded or the connector for it goes by the tank
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:25 AM   #30
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You are talking three different issues (brake pipe, fuel pipe and fuel pump).

Fuel pump- very high failure item on the Bravada/ Blazer/ Jimmy/ S10. Reason for fuel pump failure is tied to bad wiring connection. Need to get a DELPHI fuel pump (oem for AC/DELCO Bravada fuel pump) and it will include a dozen improvements to include new wiring connectors at fuel tank. You will have to cut and solder wires. Not very hard. The tank must be dropped to do this. Based on your other issues, you will have major corrossion on and around the fuel tank. New fuel tank straps and a fuel tank ring will be required at minimum. Getting the ring off will take youe hours of penetraing oil as you will not want to damage the tank. A long, dirty job but with proper jack stands and a safe working enviornment a very doable job. Biggest trick is to run the rtank nearly dry, as the weight of the gas makes the job much harder.

Fuel pipes- I saved mine, you may be able to save yours. Gas contains little moisture, so inside the gas pipe is not corroding. Brake fluid does contain moisture and gains moisture as it ages. The brake pipe is rotting from both the outside and the inside, the fuel pipe is only rotting from the outside. I think if cleand and coated with stop rust the rust corrossion will stop on the fuel pipe. Of course- it all depend on how deep the corrossion is.

Brake pipe- it is not so hard to run it where the factory placed it. The pipe is held in place with plastic rails. If a guy runs it on a different path than the factory, he better know what he is doing. Maybe other with more expereince will chime in and comment about running brake lines outside of the area the manufactuerer designed them for.

What area are you in? If you are near Chicago I would be happy to help.
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