It is amazing the knowledge of vehicles by members of this forum. I know of no other forum composed of members with this depth of knowledge.

Yes, the ignition switch is a problem. Last Bravada (1997) had 2 fail, but I replaced 3 of them as a failed ignition switch also acts like a failed fuel pump. I got so used to replacing the ignition switch that when the pump failed- I thought it was another ignition switch.

This Bravada has the plastic tank, but the hangers are rotted, again- just 70k on this garage kept vehicle. I checked on top of the tank and the fuel pump mount is completely rusted- I better plan a 2 day replacement on the fuel pump, already started spraying the PB Blaster.

This Bravada has no shirk when going from 2wd to awd. My last one didn't either.

Finally, a lot of work has been done- but I am hoping that taking proactive steps that this Bravada will last another 5 years, run like new and no payments (lest the $2500 I will put into it this year). Many a day I pass a used car lot and see a 2005/2007 SUV for under 10k and wonder if it is worth trying to keep this Bravada in like new condition- knowing that under the covers it is rusting away.

well if ya replace the tank/straps/ fuel pump it might be an idea to bed line, or undercoat it all to prevent rust.ha i live in northern MN and worked as a tech for a couple years so ive seen the worst of that loving thing called rust. some cars/trucks just dont have a chance around here with all the road salt n all that. iirc GM did fix the probs that the original fuel pump desige was giving people too. cant remember for sure but i think some full size GM trucks had fuel pump probs too but was supposed to been fixed.

Man what a list...hmm now that i think about it, idk if I've ever seen a Bravada in person before...??? Looks like you gotta nice one though =)

Basically its the Cadillac of Blazers. When running right, they are nice to have in the winter time.

Oh, and the nasty #3 sparkplug is a PITA to change out.

This tool makes getting number 3 out very easy- took me just a few minutes:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._T|GRP2062____

Cracker,

you and I think the same. Just ordered new Delphi fuel pump, alloy straps and Dorman fuel tank bolts from rockauto along with Dorman fuel line repair kits (just in case). Will be doing the rust-oleum rust reformer as I go- may need a case of it. I am mainly going to focus on lines with the rust reformer.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40

ha yeah its kind of a bummer these rust like they do cuz i like them too lol. i wouldnt mind gettin one to go way over board with the sounds in lol

I hate to bring alive a new topic, but this topic seems to address most of the issues I have with my bravada.

Recently brake fluid started leaking from the driver side middle of the vehicle obviously being the rear brake line. Where the harness holds botht he fuel lines and brake lines, the corrosion is intense. The fuel lines aren't leaking, but i'm assuming they will start leaking very soon.

I see that there is a union at the front of the vehile and a union at the rear of the axle where it T'* off to the rear wheels. Also, i see there are quick connects for the fuels lines so the job doesn't seem to be to painful, besides where they are located on the frame and the amount of rust on the gas tank bolts/unions. The lines after the unions are good.

Can you guys offer me advice on doing this job right and also where to locate all of the tubing required for both the fuel/brake components.

I got a quote for $350 labor to do this job not including the cost of new brake line and junk yard fuel lines. But Im thinking if most bravadas have the same issue, getting decent fuels lines from the junk yard will be impossible?.

I'm decently mechanically inclined to do this job, but I've never used a flare tool or made a flare union for brake lines. I do know not to use compression fittings from the research Ive done.

Could I save myself money doing it myself and will it be that difficult?

Also, anything I can do to stop this rust? i've heard you can only slow it down. I've never seen a truck so rusty in my life lol.

Thanks for all the help!

p.* Sorry if I should have made my own post. But the OP replaced his back line and planned to do his fuel lines. Wondering if he did?

personally i hate doing fuel and brake lines,if you wanted me to do that id charge you twice that. but if you want to save some money i just did my all the brake lines on my wifes bonnie including the cost of the metric flare tool for less than $100. i always replace them all, ive had enough old cars that in now once one goes you might as well do them all. and i wouldnt buy JY lines either.

Any advice on the best way to R&R this project? Also where to get the tubing for the brake lines? the quick disconnect lines are another mystery. where could I find such long lines?

thanks again