Crank. but no start.
I did not start, move, or drive my car for about 90 days, it ran fine before...
If I spray starter fluid in the intake it fires up for a second.
When I key on I never hear the pump prime, so after checking the fuses and relay, I replaced the pump, I am pretty sure I had 12v at the pump when turning the key to on, but my multimeter was acting wonky..
Now I am getting a few codes, one is PO463, a Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High Input, which I believe can only effect gas hand readings, which would explain the DIC saying Low Fuel when it has gas.
I did have a code for the Vent Valve, but I removed the rear tire and found something chewed, or the the wires just broke off at the connector of the vent valve, relaced that and that code went away.
Later on I started getting a Poo69 dtc, MAP - Barometric Pressure Correlation, I am not sure it is supposed to, but I know if the EVAP hose is not on my MAP, then the car idles horribly and cuts off, did that years back...
So my MAP and BARO are not seeing the same readings?
Now I am not sure how to proceed with the MAP code, just replace the MAP?
I was going to, but I do not, and have not had any pressure at the Schrader valve, I have no tester, but when you use your nail and get nothing but one tiny bit of air, you have no gas...
Any ideas fellas?
I have had it stress me enough, so I'll go out and fix the tractors belt, had the last shred on me, bahhh
If I spray starter fluid in the intake it fires up for a second.
When I key on I never hear the pump prime, so after checking the fuses and relay, I replaced the pump, I am pretty sure I had 12v at the pump when turning the key to on, but my multimeter was acting wonky..
Now I am getting a few codes, one is PO463, a Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High Input, which I believe can only effect gas hand readings, which would explain the DIC saying Low Fuel when it has gas.
I did have a code for the Vent Valve, but I removed the rear tire and found something chewed, or the the wires just broke off at the connector of the vent valve, relaced that and that code went away.
Later on I started getting a Poo69 dtc, MAP - Barometric Pressure Correlation, I am not sure it is supposed to, but I know if the EVAP hose is not on my MAP, then the car idles horribly and cuts off, did that years back...
So my MAP and BARO are not seeing the same readings?
Now I am not sure how to proceed with the MAP code, just replace the MAP?
I was going to, but I do not, and have not had any pressure at the Schrader valve, I have no tester, but when you use your nail and get nothing but one tiny bit of air, you have no gas...
Any ideas fellas?
I have had it stress me enough, so I'll go out and fix the tractors belt, had the last shred on me, bahhh
I don't want to just throw parts at it, I may get a new MAP sensor just to be safe.
The MAP is the one attached the EVAP I imagine, and the BARO the one to the left of it that has no hose connecting to it?
The MAP is the one attached the EVAP I imagine, and the BARO the one to the left of it that has no hose connecting to it?
This tells me no fuel being delivered.
This also tells me no fuel being delivered.
Do you hear it prime now?
Now I am getting a few codes, one is PO463, a Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High Input, which I believe can only effect gas hand readings, which would explain the DIC saying Low Fuel when it has gas.
I did have a code for the Vent Valve, but I removed the rear tire and found something chewed, or the the wires just broke off at the connector of the vent valve, relaced that and that code went away.
Later on I started getting a Poo69 dtc, MAP - Barometric Pressure Correlation, I am not sure it is supposed to, but I know if the EVAP hose is not on my MAP, then the car idles horribly and cuts off, did that years back...
So my MAP and BARO are not seeing the same readings?
Now I am not sure how to proceed with the MAP code, just replace the MAP?
I was going to, but I do not, and have not had any pressure at the Schrader valve, I have no tester, but when you use your nail and get nothing but one tiny bit of air, you have no gas...
Any ideas fellas?
I have had it stress me enough, so I'll go out and fix the tractors belt, had the last shred on me, bahhh
I did have a code for the Vent Valve, but I removed the rear tire and found something chewed, or the the wires just broke off at the connector of the vent valve, relaced that and that code went away.
Later on I started getting a Poo69 dtc, MAP - Barometric Pressure Correlation, I am not sure it is supposed to, but I know if the EVAP hose is not on my MAP, then the car idles horribly and cuts off, did that years back...
So my MAP and BARO are not seeing the same readings?
Now I am not sure how to proceed with the MAP code, just replace the MAP?
I was going to, but I do not, and have not had any pressure at the Schrader valve, I have no tester, but when you use your nail and get nothing but one tiny bit of air, you have no gas...
Any ideas fellas?
I have had it stress me enough, so I'll go out and fix the tractors belt, had the last shred on me, bahhh
Whenever I replace a fuel pump, I always make sure it powers on and pumps before putting the tank up one way or another. If it is really tight quarters, I'll just plug the whole assembly in with no tank and at least see it run before packing everything back in there. Probably a good idea here. I also always check to make sure the fuel gauge is working properly while I've got my hands on it.
More on that Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High Input, the fuel level sensor is attached to the top of the fuel pump, my new pump had the same plug in so I just used the new one already attached to the fuel pump, and still get the high input on the circuit..
That leads me to think wiring issue, not sure I can trace everything from the pump back and forth, also looking for any chewed wires or whatnot...
The MAP/BARO code was not there ad first, when I noticed the car would not start, but days later it just shows up, shrugs...
I may check both MAP and BARO for 5v with key on, and maybe check the other wire also, I think is only shows the in between voltage 1-5v
Damn MAP sensors are 70$ on Amazon, and 98$ in parts stores, yikes!
That leads me to think wiring issue, not sure I can trace everything from the pump back and forth, also looking for any chewed wires or whatnot...
The MAP/BARO code was not there ad first, when I noticed the car would not start, but days later it just shows up, shrugs...
I may check both MAP and BARO for 5v with key on, and maybe check the other wire also, I think is only shows the in between voltage 1-5v
Damn MAP sensors are 70$ on Amazon, and 98$ in parts stores, yikes!
More on that Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High Input, the fuel level sensor is attached to the top of the fuel pump, my new pump had the same plug in so I just used the new one already attached to the fuel pump, and still get the high input on the circuit..
That leads me to think wiring issue, not sure I can trace everything from the pump back and forth, also looking for any chewed wires or whatnot...
The MAP/BARO code was not there ad first, when I noticed the car would not start, but days later it just shows up, shrugs...
I may check both MAP and BARO for 5v with key on, and maybe check the other wire also, I think is only shows the in between voltage 1-5v
Damn MAP sensors are 70$ on Amazon, and 98$ in parts stores, yikes!
That leads me to think wiring issue, not sure I can trace everything from the pump back and forth, also looking for any chewed wires or whatnot...
The MAP/BARO code was not there ad first, when I noticed the car would not start, but days later it just shows up, shrugs...
I may check both MAP and BARO for 5v with key on, and maybe check the other wire also, I think is only shows the in between voltage 1-5v
Damn MAP sensors are 70$ on Amazon, and 98$ in parts stores, yikes!
A friend of my landlord is a mechanic, he is coming by tomorrow to see if he can help me, I'll get to checking fuel pump wiring first, being that I replaced the pump, I am guessing it has to be with the wiring or something.
I'll get him to check the fuse box at the relay also, I could never hear any relays make any noise, but I could never get close...
I feel like something has to be stopping the pump from getting a ground, or the 12v to run, hopefully this guy can help, I am stumped...
?
When you check the fuel wire for power, can you just set the ign to on, or does it need to be cranking?
I think I checked the heavier looking gray wire, that or the purple, I cannot remember what I checked now, been doing too much...
I'll get him to check the fuse box at the relay also, I could never hear any relays make any noise, but I could never get close...
I feel like something has to be stopping the pump from getting a ground, or the 12v to run, hopefully this guy can help, I am stumped...
?
When you check the fuel wire for power, can you just set the ign to on, or does it need to be cranking?
I think I checked the heavier looking gray wire, that or the purple, I cannot remember what I checked now, been doing too much...
Well it was the fuel pump all along, the new pump had the wiring reversed somehow, had hot where ground was supposed to go.
Was a Delpi pump..
No wonder they tell so many to use a certain connector...
It was on my 2006 Grand Prix GT
Was a Delpi pump..
No wonder they tell so many to use a certain connector...
It was on my 2006 Grand Prix GT
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