1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Tips for head swap

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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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Default Tips for head swap

Gonna swap the heads soon and I need all the little stuff.

What bolts are torque-to-yield, head, rocker, anything else? Anyone have ready to go sets of those?
Does anyone make a complete head swap gasket set?
Gotta soak the lifters in oil and pump them up by hand, how do I do that?

Other things I may not know, nothing too little. It'* my first 3800 head swap.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:23 AM
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Make sure you really prep the heads and block. I used a razorblade, carb cleaner, and a red scotch brite pad.
Dab the LIM gaskets at the corners with rtv.
Thats all I can think of right now.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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Fel-Pro and AC Delco both make full head swap sets with everything you need. I've done this a couple times. To my knowledge (based on doing this twice on L27'*) is that the rocker bolts are not TTY. Only the head bolts are.

Finally going for those 93 heads?
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
To my knowledge (based on doing this twice on L27'*) is that the rocker bolts are not TTY. Only the head bolts are.
Series II rocker bolts are TTY, don't know about Series I.

When cleaning the deck of the block, I found some yogurt containers that fit in the cylinder bores. I cut them down to about an inch tall, that way you can rotate the crank to get all of the cylinders down the bore enough to fit all three in. You'll need to finish the surface with Scrotch Brite pads.

Tape off the lifter gallery while doing this to keep the crap out. Vacuum really well with a shop vac after. Just before final assembly, pour fresh motor oil (cheap kind) all over the lifters and inside the gallery. Change the engine oil and filter as one of the last things before engine start up.

Consider buying ARP head studs if the price comparison is reasonable, they have a more even clamping force, and they're reusable.

Soak the lifters for 24 hours in motor oil. Make sure they are completely covered in oil and give them a shake a couple of times, you'll see some come out. No need to attempt to pump them up.

Cheers,
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:42 AM
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Pouring oil over the valvtrain and in the lifter gallery is a very good idea. I did this with a 1/2 quart every week or two while the zilla was torn down. I had to drain the oil a couple times during this period, but it was worth it. I left oil-soaked rags covering the rockers and lifter gallery when not working on the car.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 03:41 PM
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Yeah, I finally got the rest of the parts ordered to get the heads done and EM & LIM port matched. Fel-pro has all the gaskets, it seems but the TB and vacuum manifold gasket.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 03:49 PM
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Hmm ARP only lists bolts for 99-up L67'*.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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Ensure you have plenty of brake cleaner on hand for all mating surface cleaning.

Instead of a hand scotch brite pad, I have a right angle drill w/a scotch brite type pad on the end of a shaft (Advance has the post and 6 pads in a kit) Having power to it works great and fast. (Got tip from mechanic buddy)

Take your time..and whenever possible have a couple buddies over.. Engine work is better w/buds

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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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Fel Pro HS9088PT -no head bolts..


Fel Pro ES72167 -the head bolts..



there is the parts...with Advance we keep them in the nearest distribution center...might have them in store where you live...but if not PDQ shipping should be able to get them next day..if not same day.

This set also includes the Valve stem seals....so if you are getting the heads magnifluxed get the set first and take the seals to whomever does your head work to have them seated
Good luck..with mine it was fun
James
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