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Old 05-04-2016, 02:31 PM   #1
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Default No crank no start

hey i have a 2003 pontiac grand am 3.4l v6. ive been having problems with the car not cranking or starting. Ive already got the passlock bypassed and it was running great for about a month and now it wont crank anymore. Ive checked all my soldered joints and ends, and checked the wiring; they are all in good shape. so im wondering if its the BCM or the PCM that could be causing the no crank no start.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:25 PM   #2
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So when you turn the key any click what does it do?
Battery got enough CCA? fully charged? What is voltage reading at battery?
Double check ground wires and all battery terminals tight, clean free from any corrosion.\
Could be solenoid or starter, got voltage there?
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:27 PM   #3
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Just for ha-ha'*, which way did you bypass the PassLock?

Even though you bypassed the sensor in some fashion, you could still have a bad connection at the BCM harness.....

When you turn key to the crank position, and nothing happens, and you release the key to the on position, does the Theft light flash or just stay on?

First thing I would do is go to the starter relay in the underhood fuse block....put your finger on the relay....have someone turn the key to the crank position.....feel it click? No, swap a relay......if still no, check the four legs of the relay....one should be hot all the time....another should be hot only with the key in the crank position......another goes to the starter.....and the fourth is a control circuit ground from the PCM........

If you get a click from the relay, then check for power at the purple wire to the starter solenoid when the key is in the crank position.....if you have power, bad starter...no power, then open purple wire......

I have also seen problems with the UBEC, or fuse block the starter relay sits in.......take the palm of you hand and repeatedly hit it, while someone cycles the key from on to crank repeatedly....if it starts, could be a connection in the UBEC, or the locking bolts holding the harnesses to the board are loose...check them(think they are silver in color)......
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:39 PM   #4
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The bypass is a switch chopped into the yellow wire that goes from the ignition to the BCM. i replaced the whole wire just to make sure there was no break in it. the security light stays off when turning the key.
my battery has 12.4V and was checked yesterday at autozone and its in good working condition. when i turn the key the lights in the dash light up then the gauges do the full sweep no crank no start. the only lights that show up on the dash after i turn the key to start is the oil battery and check engine soon. no codes are being thrown.
the relays where swapped out for new ones that was the first thing i tryed. when someone turns the key i do not feel or hear a click from the relay. i do have one that has a content voltage. when someone turned the key only 1 had power. i chased all the wiring down and checked for corrosion none was found. i checked the wire that leads to the bcm and checked the pin directly and when someone turned the key it still didnt get power.
i tried the the starter bypass switch and the starter spins and the solenoid engages. I checked all the legs on the under the hood fuse box and checked the wiring all in good shape no corrosion and same goes for the battery. all grounds are in good shape i pulled them just to make sure. Thanks in advance for trying to help me with this problem


"Update" it just started but for how long i dont know.

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Old 05-05-2016, 02:29 PM   #5
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well in less then two hours after it started and was running its dead again
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:13 AM   #6
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Your diagnosis begins at the starter relay......

When it won't start, G2 should have power all the time....G3 should only have power when the key is in the crank position(and vehicle in Park or Neutral)......E3 goes to the starter....E2 is the control ground for the relay when the key is in the crank position.......When it didn't start, you said you only had power on one leg, was that the leg that has constant power, G2? If yes, and you didn't have power on G3 with the key in the crank position, then you have to trace the circuit from the ignition switch, to the PCM ACC fuse, through the PNP switch......If you have power out of the PNP switch, then I would suspect a connection in the fuse block for the starter relay......like I said, try hitting it with the palm of your hand while turning the key to the crank position...


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Old 05-06-2016, 04:39 PM   #7
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I smacked the relay box it did nothing. After turning the key off to start for about 5 mins the car started up. The weird thing is when I was doing this my neighbor looked over his fence and told me I need to replace my ignition switch. I'm thinking he maybe right because I checked the legs on the relay again after I was able to get it started multiple times and 2 legs are getting power one is content and the other is only when I turn it to crank/start.
Also after the car does the no crack no start and I can get it started the exhaust smells really rich of gasoline. wonder if the PCM keeps getting reset because of the ignition switch issues or the car just gets slightly flooded do to the rapid off on key turning i have to do to get it to run.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:56 PM   #8
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Nooooooooo.......

Before you replace the ignition switch, it'* easy to check out......

When your car won't start, just attach a test light to the PCM ACC fuse, and also a test light to the crank fuse....now turn key to crank....if the car doesn't crank, and BOTH test lights, light, it'* not the ignition switch....if one of them doesn't, then if wiring is ok, need an ignition switch....

Your initial start, you are running rich to begin with, so the smell...
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