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Coolant Leak Under Water Pump

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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 11:24 PM
  #11  
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Use the dye and allow it to run until it starts to drip and shut off. After it cools open it up and find the highest point and that'* where it'* coming from.
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 12:15 AM
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I'll get the dye, light and glasses, and mirror, and do that and see what I can find, thanks.
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 04:14 AM
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WilliamE, this is a 2006 pontiac Grand Prix 3800 engine. you can see the two ports on the top of the gasket for coolant. I think you're right, it could leak here and not go in the oil. hope these pictures help! I just went to Rockauto.com and looked it up. the whole engine is only $1930 if you just want to replace yours.
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 04:33 AM
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this is my 91 olds 3800 when I put a timing chain etc in it, gives you a view of the actual engine coolant ports. If you have to tear yours down I'd be glad to give you any advice you need. the engines haven't changed much mechanically. but do the dye test or pressure test first to make sure you know where its leaking.
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 05:15 AM
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Is 1,930.00 average for a new motor?
Or a low mileage motor?
And would that cover install?
I have done a little of everything except totally transplant a motor, I really don't have a cherry picker, or engine stand, as unless it was a totally new motor I'd have to nitpick over it while I can before dropping it in..
My current motor is at like 156k, but I have replaced every single coolant hose, did the lower intake manifold, water pump, and although I have not ran a compression test I think it is still in pretty good shape..

I ordered the dye, mirror, light and glasses, I'll try to pinpoint the leak Monday or soon after, the stuff will get here right when I go back to work..

That pic shows where I suspect a leak, and feel it could leak without getting into the inside of the motor right away, but if I am right it needs to be fixed ASAP and not driven till it is..
Here are the areas I think my leak is coming from, I hope somehow I am wrong...

If I am not wrong I feel like I can handle the job, hardest part looks like removing the crank bolt and pulley, aside for that I have pretty much removed everything else before...
Work may not allow me to take enough time to get to it though, so worst case scenario I finally shell out a few hundred to a shop, I need to take it in to the dealer to get the old ignition recall fixed anyway....

Thanks again for the help..


2 suspect spots
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 05:27 AM
  #16  
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Meant to ask in the last post, what is that gasket in the middle for, the brown and orange one?
I know the right is waterpump, and left is timing chain gasket, just unsure about middle gasket...


Damn, noticed a new 0 mile L32 can run like 2,700.00
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 05:33 AM
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Oil filter housing to timing chain cover.
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 05:36 AM
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I was joking about the new engine. my Park ave has 260,000 miles and run perfect. These engines will run forever if you take care of them.
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 10:13 AM
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If you use the dye do not drive it. You don't want to have airflow pushing it around. Just let it idle until you see it drip.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 02:33 AM
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Just curious, I think the book says 5.5 hours on this job, Ill double check, what can I expect a shop to want to do the job if I do not have time?
I am at 156k miles, should I go ahead and replace the timing chain, crank and cam sprockets, and dampener?
OE AC Delco Chain is usually 65.00, I got lucky and snagged one for 13.00 total shipped on Amazon, was the last one, from the AC Delco Store there, always got reliable parts from them..


Of course if I do that job then I think I have to remove spark plug 1, and roll around till piston is at TDC, and the two dots on the sprockets are at 12' o'clock

The more vides I watch I am sure I could do it myself, it just depends on work, I barely have Sat and Sun to work on it, and it is getting cold, I have no garage..
The job looks easy, I have had everything off before, except the crank pulley...
The cleanup looks the hardest, if I pay a mechanic he may clean it, but I am not sure he would do a thorough as a job as I would, I'd take a shop vac to it and q-tips in all bolt holes, easy buzz all bolts with a wire wheel on my dremel...

After the job is done I am looking at an oil filter and oil change right? I mean I ay as well...
And the coolant system flushed and filled...
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