That'* exactly the one I have.

Yeah, it'* all the way up floating about -45

I don't have a pressure tester, but I can tell it'* pressurized by the hoses.

My concern is that I can see bubbles in the coolant as the system is running with the cap off.

Bubbles usually indicate a head gasket leak. Unless your t-stat is of the self-bleeding kind.

I'm guessing it'* not self bleeding.

DAMN! DAMN! DAMN! DAMN! DAMN!

Ok, what'* my next steps?

It should be at the next to the last mark if it is mixed at 50/50, being a little higher just means you have a little more coolant than water, that should not be the cause of your problem though.

If the bubbles keep coming steadily then as Mike says, it sounds like a head gasket problem.


Did you let it warm up and crack the bleeder screw till nothing but a steady stream of coolant came out?
You could have trapped air in there, if not then it very well may be a head gasket issue.

I am not sure how well these work, but you could get a combustion leak detector, it should be cheaper than having a mechanic test for a head gasket leak.
Found instructions for doing the test.

""To do the test, add the blue detector fluid to the (block-tester) plastic container according to the directions, and place it onto the radiator filler neck. The squeeze bulb is placed on top of the reservoir and squeezed repeatedly (Some block testers, have a tube that connects to a vacuum line instead of a squeeze bulb). Squeezing the bulb will draw air from the radiator through the test fluid. Block tester fluid is normally blue. Exhaust gases in the cooling system will change the color of the fluid to yellow, indicating a combustion leak. If the fluid remains blue, exhaust gases were not present during the test. The vehicle should be started and at operating temperature before performing the test. Vehicles with head gasket leaks may overheat, and purge hot water and steam out of the radiator. Perform this test, at your own risk, and do not do the test, unless you are experienced and are wearing clothing and equipment to protect you from burns, or injury.""

No I didn't crack the bleeder screw. I've always burped my vehicles the traditional way. Would that make a difference?

All I have to do is just crack the bleeder?

One check for a head gasket, is get the engine to normal operating temp.....then let it cool down enough so that you can safely remove the radiator cap....attach a coolant pressure tester and pressurize the system overnight....next day, disable fuel and spark(I unscrew the harness to the ICM), remove all plugs.....then have someone crank the vehicle over.....if coolant comes shooting out of a cylinder hole, you know you have found the problem cylinder.....

I just did my uim/lim and had lots of air in system. To get rid of it with cap on, allow car to warm above where thermostat opens temp 195+, then raise idle to about 1800 rpm and open bleeed screw until a solid jet stream is coming out and no air bubbles seen anymore.
Then close bleed screw and return idle to normal.

As long as you are sure you got all of the air out it should not really matter, but IMO it would not hurt to do.

Yeah, I ran that sucker for over 30 minutes and never saw the bubbles stop. I'm reasonably sure there is no air in the system Combustion gases are another story.