Consuming coolant after replacing UIM and LIM - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Pontiac When starting new posts, please specify YEAR, MAKE, MODEL, ENGINE type, and whatever modifications you have made.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-04-2014, 10:01 PM   #21
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 161
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
ggenovez is on a distinguished road
Default

That'* exactly the one I have.

Yeah, it'* all the way up floating about -45

I don't have a pressure tester, but I can tell it'* pressurized by the hoses.

My concern is that I can see bubbles in the coolant as the system is running with the cap off.
ggenovez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 10:05 PM   #22
Senior Administrator








Certified Car Nut
 
Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Horseheads, NY
Posts: 15,649
Thanked 1,001 Times in 777 Posts
Mike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond reputeMike has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Bubbles usually indicate a head gasket leak. Unless your t-stat is of the self-bleeding kind.
Mike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2014, 10:12 PM   #23
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 161
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
ggenovez is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm guessing it'* not self bleeding.

DAMN! DAMN! DAMN! DAMN! DAMN!

Ok, what'* my next steps?
ggenovez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2014, 04:02 AM   #24
Senior Member

True Car Nut
 
WilliamE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: VA
Posts: 3,087
Thanked 418 Times in 376 Posts
WilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ggenovez View Post
That'* exactly the one I have.

Yeah, it'* all the way up floating about -45

I don't have a pressure tester, but I can tell it'* pressurized by the hoses.

My concern is that I can see bubbles in the coolant as the system is running with the cap off.
It should be at the next to the last mark if it is mixed at 50/50, being a little higher just means you have a little more coolant than water, that should not be the cause of your problem though.

If the bubbles keep coming steadily then as Mike says, it sounds like a head gasket problem.


Did you let it warm up and crack the bleeder screw till nothing but a steady stream of coolant came out?
You could have trapped air in there, if not then it very well may be a head gasket issue.

I am not sure how well these work, but you could get a combustion leak detector, it should be cheaper than having a mechanic test for a head gasket leak.
Found instructions for doing the test.

""To do the test, add the blue detector fluid to the (block-tester) plastic container according to the directions, and place it onto the radiator filler neck. The squeeze bulb is placed on top of the reservoir and squeezed repeatedly (Some block testers, have a tube that connects to a vacuum line instead of a squeeze bulb). Squeezing the bulb will draw air from the radiator through the test fluid. Block tester fluid is normally blue. Exhaust gases in the cooling system will change the color of the fluid to yellow, indicating a combustion leak. If the fluid remains blue, exhaust gases were not present during the test. The vehicle should be started and at operating temperature before performing the test. Vehicles with head gasket leaks may overheat, and purge hot water and steam out of the radiator. Perform this test, at your own risk, and do not do the test, unless you are experienced and are wearing clothing and equipment to protect you from burns, or injury.""

Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector
WilliamE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2014, 10:26 AM   #25
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 161
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
ggenovez is on a distinguished road
Default

No I didn't crack the bleeder screw. I've always burped my vehicles the traditional way. Would that make a difference?

All I have to do is just crack the bleeder?
ggenovez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2014, 07:00 PM   #26
Senior Member

Certified GM nut
 
Tech II's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Worcester, Ma.
Posts: 2,152
Thanked 786 Times in 615 Posts
Tech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond reputeTech II has a reputation beyond repute
Default

One check for a head gasket, is get the engine to normal operating temp.....then let it cool down enough so that you can safely remove the radiator cap....attach a coolant pressure tester and pressurize the system overnight....next day, disable fuel and spark(I unscrew the harness to the ICM), remove all plugs.....then have someone crank the vehicle over.....if coolant comes shooting out of a cylinder hole, you know you have found the problem cylinder.....
Tech II is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Tech II For This Useful Post:
Soft Ride (08-05-2014), WilliamE (08-05-2014)
Old 08-05-2014, 07:05 PM   #27
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Soft Ride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 3,590
Thanked 341 Times in 303 Posts
Soft Ride has much to be proud ofSoft Ride has much to be proud ofSoft Ride has much to be proud ofSoft Ride has much to be proud ofSoft Ride has much to be proud ofSoft Ride has much to be proud ofSoft Ride has much to be proud ofSoft Ride has much to be proud of
Default

I just did my uim/lim and had lots of air in system. To get rid of it with cap on, allow car to warm above where thermostat opens temp 195+, then raise idle to about 1800 rpm and open bleeed screw until a solid jet stream is coming out and no air bubbles seen anymore.
Then close bleed screw and return idle to normal.
Soft Ride is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Soft Ride For This Useful Post:
WilliamE (08-05-2014)
Old 08-05-2014, 08:37 PM   #28
Senior Member

True Car Nut
 
WilliamE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: VA
Posts: 3,087
Thanked 418 Times in 376 Posts
WilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond reputeWilliamE has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ggenovez View Post
No I didn't crack the bleeder screw. I've always burped my vehicles the traditional way. Would that make a difference?

All I have to do is just crack the bleeder?
As long as you are sure you got all of the air out it should not really matter, but IMO it would not hurt to do.
WilliamE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2014, 10:04 AM   #29
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 161
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
ggenovez is on a distinguished road
Default

Yeah, I ran that sucker for over 30 minutes and never saw the bubbles stop. I'm reasonably sure there is no air in the system Combustion gases are another story.
ggenovez is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
?? coolant level hardly moves in resevoir after flush and UIM/LIM replacement goldfinger22 Buick 16 03-09-2014 08:16 PM
After UIM and LIM repair? billberry12 2000-2005 1 01-11-2009 04:56 PM
Replacing UIM's and LIM's leftd90 General GM Chat 9 02-04-2008 09:14 AM
UIM and LIM replaced now leaking coolant out of UIM gasket Paul1981 2000-2005 10 12-21-2007 11:05 PM
98 SE runs sweetly after UIM/LIM job (oops-engine codes) Slug 1992-1999 17 10-13-2006 02:37 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:36 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.